Backyard Barbecue à la Blackhawk Look Ma, no sous chefs! The Blackhawk's Chef Barry Rosenstein shows us how to host a sumptuous summer barbecue - solo. By Nancy Ross Ryan

Photo by Laurie Proffitt

If you can't stand the heat -- get back in the kitchen. Many an otherwise cool and collected dinner host of my acquaintance has crumbled under the pressure of a not-so-simple backyard barbecue. The logistics can be terrifying: How is it possible to cook several entrees and vegetables on one grill, not to mention tend the fire and keep the food from burning to a crisp while you make side dishes and desserts? Barry Rosenstein, executive chef at Blackhawk Lodge -- known for his specialties such as Charcoal Grilled Whole Fish, Blackhawk Baby Back Ribs and Jack Daniels Smoked Beef Tenderloin -- assured me it was possible. "Easy for you to say," I said, "You have a whole battalion of cooks and sous chefs at your command." But he assured me a multi-course backyard barbecue was a flight, not of fancy, but entirely possible to make solo, provided you had a plan. Proof of the pudding is in the eating and the chef proved his point by creating a foolproof menu and meal plan (see below). All of his recipes serve eight and may be doubled. And the secret of success is preparing as much as possible the day before, leaving only the ribs, shrimp, vegetables and dessert for the grill. The barbecue is served buffet-style, so everyone helps themselves. And not only to keep food looking and tasting fresh but for food safety, Rosenstein suggests putting out only as much food as people will eat and replacing (not refilling!) bowls and platters as they are emptied. Unless you have an unlimited supply of china, the chef suggests purchasing color-coordinated top quality, heavy-gauge disposables -- plates, glasses, napkins, and especially eating utensils -- that are not likely to sag, crack, tear or break during the meal. When the buffet table is set, Rosenstein suggests posting a menu with the date so guests may enjoy anticipating their meal. There are ceramic menu boards at specialty stores -- write on these with special marker pens -- and also a variety of decorative easels for propping up a handwritten or computer-generated menu. He also recommends identifying each dish on the buffet by its name on a small hand-written card. When it comes to decor, Rosenstein favors food over flowers, "I'm a food person and for an informal buffet, I like to use the ingredients themselves: bottles of the olive oil, extra heirloom tomatoes beside the serving bowl of tomato salad. Fill in spaces with whole pineapples, and if you have used, say, a farfalle pasta to make the pasta salad, then let some of the dry pasta spill out of its box onto the table." As far as breads are concerned, for freshness as well as aesthetic appeal, he suggests placing them in baskets with cutting boards and bread knife so guests may choose and slice their own. Fresh red, yellow and green bell peppers might be a tableside accent to the dish of roasted marinated peppers. The dish of bean puree might be set on a bed of dried white beans. Use as many of the natural ingredients as possible to fill in the empty spaces on the buffet. Also consider varying the height of some of the serving dishes by using pedestals, bricks, upside-down terra cotta pots, anything sturdy and visually interesting. Where's the beef? In the refrigerator. Starting the day before, the simply but boldly seasoned beef tenderloin is marinated in a spice rub, then grilled over indirect heat, chilled and wrapped and refrigerated. When ready to serve it is brought to room temperature, sliced and placed on a platter. Let the grilling begin, first with the pork. If you are using a charcoal-burning kettle grill, it should be no less than 22-1/2 inches in diameter. Anything smaller won't provide enough cooking surface (see Grill Tips). The pork ribs are marinated and refrigerated the day before and already on the grill at least an hour before the guests arrive. Because the ribs are grilled by the indirect method (see Grill Tips), they take longest. Right before they are done, set the salads, breads, spreads and roasted peppers on the buffet. Put the bottles of beer and wine into ice-filled containers: Galvanized metal or copper or bright plastic pans and buckets may be used. Put the punch and the sweetened minted iced tea in pitchers for easy pouring next to glasses and a bucket of ice with tongs. When the ribs are cooked and removed to their serving platter, carefully remove the grill grate with hot pads and set aside. Remove the drip pan using long-handled tongs, and redistribute the hot coals, adding more charcoal as necessary, over the bottom of the grill. (If you have used charcoal rails remove them as well). Replace the grate, and begin grilling the vegetables, which take about 10 minutes each. When the vegetables are on platters, grill the shrimp, which take about three minutes. After the shrimp are grilled, clean the grate (see Grill Tips). You may need to add some coals to the fire again, so that by the time your guests have room for dessert they will be at the perfect temperature for grilling the piece de resistance -- the pineapple. The second dessert, the angel food cake, may be sliced, and positioned near a big bowl of summer fruit in its own sauce, so guests may ladle their own.

Barry's Backyard Barbecue and Battle Plan ONE DAY AHEAD Pasta Salad (your favorite recipe, chilled) Marinated Grilled Beef Tenderloin (marinate and grill, then chill) Marinated Grilled Country Style Pork Ribs Roasted Marinated Red, Green and Yellow Bell Peppers in Pesto Vinaigrette (prepare ahead and chill) Caesar Salad (your favorite recipe, prechill lettuce add dressing, cheese and croutons when ready to serve) Angel food Cake with Summer Fruits (make fruit ahead and chill, purchase cake) THE DAY OF THE BARBEQUE Grilled Shrimp (grill and serve) Heirloom Tomato Salad (mix and chill) Spreads: Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Black Olive Tapenade, White Bean Puree (prepare ahead and chill) Grilled Asparagus with Herb Butter (prepare butter ahead, grill and serve) Corn on the Cob with Chile-Lime Butter (prepare butter ahead, grill and serve) Grilled Rum-Marinated Pineapple with Coconut Ice Cream and Gingered Caramel Sauce (marinate pineapple and prepare sauce ahead, grill pineapple and serve with purchased coconut ice cream) ALSO The Bread Basket (home-baked cornbread, and a selection of purchased breads such as French and Italian country breads or sourdough, black olive bread, sun-dried tomato bread, herb bread) Drinks: Cold beer, chilled rose wine (such as French Rosé d'Anjou, Rosé Bandol, Tavel Rosé), minted iced tea and Coconut Rum Punch

	Chilled Beef Tenderloin with Black Pepper and Garlic Serves: about 8 1 4-pound beef tenderloin filet (defatted), cleaned and trimmed 3 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced 4 ounces olive oil 2 tablespoons black pepper, freshly cracked or ground 2 tablespoons coarse sea salt. 1. Make small cuts with sharp paring knife around the beef tenderloin and insert garlic slices into them. 2. Drizzle the olive oil over the tenderloin, using your hands to distribute over entire surface. 3. Rub the black pepper into the beef. Cover with plastic wrap and marinate in the refrigerator for 3 to 4 hours. 4. Remove from the refrigerator, sprinkle with coarse salt and place over preheated grill, turning every 5 to 6 minutes until the internal temperature reaches 125°F. (See note.) 5. Remove the tenderloin from the heat and let rest at room temperature for 30 minutes. 6. Wrap cooked tenderloin in plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. Bring to room temperature by removing from refrigerator 1 hour before serving. 7. To serve: Slice thinly and arrange on platter. Note: Instant read thermometers, widely available, may be used to give an accurate reading of the internal temperature of the meat. Insert thermometer into the center of the tenderloin.

	Grilled Shrimp Serves: 8 3 pounds extra large (26-30 ct.) or jumbo (21-25 ct.) shrimp 1-1/2 teaspoons salt 1-1/2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil 1 clove garlic 1. Leave shell and tail on but devein shrimp by cutting shell along the back and scraping out black vein. 2. Rinse shrimp and pat dry. 3. In blender or food processor, combine salt, pepper, olive oil and garlic. Pulse to puree garlic and dissolve seasonings. 4. In a non-reactive baking dish (glass, enamel or stainless steel) combine shrimp with olive-oil mixture, tossing to coat.Cover with plastic wrap and marinate, refrigerated, for 1 hour. 5. Grill over direct heat, turning once, for 1-1/2 to 3 minutes total, or until shrimp are completely cooked but not overdone.

Oregano Vinaigrette Yield: 2 cups 4 ounces red wine vinegar 1 tablespoon Dijon-style mustard 1 tablespoon dried oregano 12 ounces extra virgin olive oil Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1. Combine the vinegar, mustard and oregano and marinate for 20 minutes. 2. Drizzle in the olive oil while whisking vigorously to emulsify. 3. Adjust seasoning with salt and black pepper. Black Olive Tapenade Yield: About 8 servings 1/2 pound large Greek-style black olives pitted (see note) 4 anchovy fillets 3 tablespoons capers 1 garlic clove, peeled and sliced 1 pinch cayenne pepper 1 teaspoon dried savory 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1. In a food processor, reduce the olives, anchovies, capers, garlic, cayenne and savory to a coarse puree. 2. Add the olive oil and process only until the mixture is emulsified. Note: Pre-pitted Kalamata olives are available in the deli section at many supermarkets. White Bean Purée with Garlic Yield: About 2 cups 2 15-ounce cans white beans 2 garlic cloves, peeled, halved 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil 2-3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 1. In a colander, rinse beans under cold water, drain well. 2. Place beans and garlic in a food processor and process until finely chopped. 3. With machine running, pour in garlic and lemon juice, and process until beans and garlic are smoothly pureed. 4. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Place in a small bowl, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to use.

GRILLED CORN ON THE COB WITH CHILE-LIME BUTTER Serves: 8 1 pound unsalted butter, softened 1 tablespoon chile powder 1 teaspoon ground cumin 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 8 ears of corn, shucked 1. In a small bowl, combine the butter, chile powder, cumin, lime juice and salt and pepper and mix well. (May be made ahead, covered and refrigerated until ready to use.) 2. Brush ears of corn with chile-lime butter and grill over direct heat, turning frequently, until the kernels are cooked and browned, about 10 to 12 minutes. Alternate cooking method: Brush uncooked ears of corn with lime butter and wrap each individually in aluminum foil. Place wrapped ears on cooking grate, turning about 3 times, and cook over direct heat for about 25 minutes. GRILLED ASPARAGUS WITH HERB BUTTER Serves: 8 1 pound unsalted butter, softened 1 tablespoon fresh tarragon, chopped 1 teaspoon fresh thyme, chopped 1 tablespoon fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 2 pounds asparagus, washed, fibrous ends trimmed 1. In small bowl, combine butter, tarragon, thyme, parsley, lemon juice and salt and pepper, mixing well. (May be made ahead, covered and refrigerated until ready to use.) 2. Divide asparagus spears into 8 (more or less) equal portions. Lay portions side by side on cutting board and skewer them together with slender wooden skewers. 3. Brush on both sides with herb butter, and grill over direct heat, turning once, for about 4 minutes per side. ROASTED PEPPERS WITH PESTO VINAIGRETTE Serves: 8 2 each red, yellow and green bell peppers (8 in all), cored, seeded 2 ounces balsamic vinegar 2 ounces Sherry vinegar 2 ounces shallots, minced 2 ounces prepared pesto 12 ounces extra virgin olive oil 1. Place whole cored, seeded peppers on a flat baking pan under the broiler, turning with tongs as each side becomes charred and blistered. Remove peppers from broiler, and, using tongs, place in a large bowl. Cover bowl with lid or plate, to allow steam to soften skins. 2. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, combine vinegars, shallots, basil pesto and extra virgin olive oil, whisking to emulsify. 3. When peppers are cool enough to handle, wipe off blackened skins with paper towels. (This is messy, but don't rinse peppers under water or flavor will be diluted.) 4. Cut peppers into strips. Place in bowl. Add enough of the marinade to moisten well, and toss to coat. 5. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to serve.

Grilled Pineapple with Coconut Ice Cream and Gingered Caramel Sauce Serves: 8 1 ripe pineapple, peeled, cored, and cut into 8 slices 4 ounces dark rum 16 ounces prepared caramel sauce 3 ounces ginger, peeled and thinly sliced Coconut ice cream as needed 1. Drizzle rum over pineapple slices, allow to marinate for 20 minutes. 2. Warm the caramel sauce to a simmer over medium heat. Add ginger slices, remove from heat the let steep for at least 15 minutes. Strain before using, discarding ginger. 3. Grill pineapple slices to just heat through and remove to a platter. 4. To serve: On individual serving plates, top each slice with a small scoop of coconut ice cream, drizzle with gingered caramel sauce and any accumulated juices on the holding platter.

	Minted Simple Syrup for Minted Iced Tea Yield: About 3 cups 3 cups packed fresh mint leaves, chopped 2 cups sugar 2 cups water 1. Place sugar, water and mint in a saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring until sugar is dissolved. 2. Simmer the syrup, undisturbed, 2 minutes. 3. Pour syrup through a fine sieve, pressing hard on the solids. Discard solids. 4. Pour syrup in a clean 1-quart glass jar or pitcher. Cover and chill up to 2 weeks. Stir into prepared iced tea to taste. Coconut Rum Punch with Papaya Juice Yield: About 1-1/2 gallons 2 quarts papaya juice or nectar 1 quart cranberry juice cocktail 1 quart soda water 24 ounces coconut-flavored rum 16 ounces cointreau Mix all ingredients together well and serve in 8-ounce glasses over ice cubes. Summer Fruits in Their Own Sauce Serves: 8 3 pounds mixed ripe summer fruit (strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, chopped mango, chopped papaya, diced kiwi -- see note) Sugar to taste 1. In a large non-reactive bowl (glass, ceramic, stainless steel or enamel) gently mix fruit with sugar. 2. Remove 1/4 of the fruit and puree it in a food processor, adding a little more sugar if needed to taste. 3. Return fruit puree to bowl and toss fruit gently to mix. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate. To serve: Spoon over slices of angel food cake. Note: If using blueberries, add them whole after the fruit has been pureed and the "sauce" created. You may also use just strawberries, or raspberries or a combination of the two.

GRILL TIPS The two most basic types of grills are: Kettle Grills with domed vented tops (such as Weber) come in diameters that range from 18-1/2 inches to 37-1/2 inches. 22-1/2 inches in diameter is minimum for cooking for more than four people. Fuel: charcoal briquets. Gas grills with covers come with a variety of added features: side table for workspace, rotisserie fittings, warming burner for heating sauces, warming rack. Fuel: liquid propane. Gas grills come with their own specific instructions. Instructions below apply to kettle grills. The two basic grill cooking methods: Direct: For cooking steaks, chops, burgers, fish, and vegetables -- foods that require less than 30 minutes' cooking time. Food is cooked directly over hot coals. Lid may be on or off during cooking. About 60 charcoal briquets required for direct cooking in a 22-1/2-inch diameter kettle grill. Indirect: For cooking roasts, turkeys, hams, slabs of meat -- foods that require long, slow cooking. Equal amounts of charcoal are placed on both sides of the kettle and a drip pan is placed in the middle. Food is cooked with the cover on. Heat rises, and circulates around like a convection oven. For meats that require more than one hour's cooking, additional charcoal must be added. About 25 charcoal briquets on each side are needed for indirect cooking in a 22-1/2-inch kettle grill. For every additional hour of cooking after the first, add 8 briquets to each side. To clean hot grill grate between cooking: Using a wire-bristled brush, brush the grate to clear it of cooked particles. Then fold several thicknesses of paper toweling to form a thick pad. Dip this pad lightly into vegetable oil in a small bowl, then rub in over the bars of the hot grate being careful not to let the oil drip onto the coals and catch fire.

June 2000

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