Photo by Laurie Proffitt

Wines of Summer Lighten up on wines and life. By Nancy Ross Ryan We eat -- and drink -- differently in summertime. When the temperature outside is 90 nudging 100, who could even contemplate (without a shudder) cracking the buttery, garlicky crust on a bubbling cassoulet and spooning into the rich, steamy stew of beans, goose confit, sausage and pork? It is just as unthinkable to uncork a bottle of Château Lafite-Rothschild at a picnic. Save that grand cru from Bordeaux for a special dinner in fall or winter (circa 2020 if it's a great vintage year). The wines of summer should be young, uncomplicated and generally inexpensive. Summer calls for wines that are not overwhelmingly tannic or oaky, that are often (though not always) slightly lower in alcohol, and even the reds may be slightly chilled. Michel Picard, a Burgundian winemaker and négociant-éleveur, says "In Burgundy there are several restaurants with tables outside in summertime. Syrah is served chilled. All of the fruit of the wine arrives in the nose and the mouth. But it is very interesting to follow the evolution of the wine as it takes on the temperature of the environs." Picard says that in Paris tout le monde drinks cabernet franc chilled, like white wine; beaujolais villages are chilled and so are rosé wines. We live differently in summer, too, our minds recalibrated to mellow. In summer the pace should be slower, and entertaining more relaxed. So if you dine out with friends, or host a brunch, barbecue or supper chez vous, you can lighten up with wines from, quite literally, all over the world. Just make your selection from the wines below, personally recommended by wine directors, wine makers, chefs, restaurateurs -- and little old moi. The Whites of Summer The hot, up and coming white varietals in Oregon these days are pinot gris and pinot blanc (relatives of pinot noir), says Pat Dudley of Bethel-Heights vineyards who is president of the Oregon Wine Marketing Coalition. "Some winemakers have gone so far as to rip up their chardonnay and replant with pinot gris and pinot blanc," she says. Aside from pinot gris and pinto blanc, one of Dudley's personal summertime favorites is Müller Thurgau. A white grape, originally a German varietal, it has taken to its new home in Oregon and is made in dry and off-dry styles with no barrel aging. Of course, don't forget riesling from Oregon, in dry and off-dry styles. Karen King, wine director at Manhattan's Union Square Cafe, likes to expand the wine vocabulary of the restaurant's admitedly adventuresome patrons. She recently introduced an unfamiliar white wine from Austria, grüner Vetliner, that has been remarkably well received.. She describes it as very crisp and refreshing with green pea and celery flavors, its slight sweetness beautifully balanced by acidity. Hubert Trimbach, the 12th-generation Alsatian winemaker, suggests that many of the wines of Alsace with their balance between fruit and acidity are ideal for summer. Trimbach's own pinot blanc and pinot gris reserve are made, as are all Trimbach's wines, in stainless steel and glass-lined vats without any oak aging. Although we tend not to think of Sherry as white wine (we tend, unfortunately, not to think enough of Sherry), François Sanchez, chef-proprietor of Mesón Sabika, a Spanish restaurant in Northfield, Illinois, highly recommends chilled fino and manzanilla Sherries as perfect summer aperitifs and to serve with appetizers and small courses. He cautions, "Serve a two to two and one-half ounce glass, because Sherry is higher in alcohol than still wines." His favorite Spanish wine for summer is albariño, from the Galacia region in Spain. He describes it as clean but complex, almost peachy -- and wonderful with seafood. David Kline, wine and spirits director for Brio, Chicago's newest Spanish restaurant, recommends vina sol blanco, "peachy, floral and clean," and another Spanish wine, pansa blanca clasico, a soft wine with grapefruit flavors. I was pleasantly surprised this summer to discover two white wines from, of all places, Argentina, both from Santa Julia vineyards in Mendoza. The first is a crisp, grassy light-bodied sauvignon blanc and the second a spicy, floral torrontes, with tropical fruit flavors that gets along very well with one of my favorite cuisines -- Thai. Michel Picard has some favorite food and white wine matches: vouvray -- also good as an aperitif -- with cheese; macon villages with seafood. And Peter Hoehn, food and beverage manager at Quail Lodge, which is nestled in Carmel Valley, California, has his own summer favorites. This is his short list: Jekel Riesling, Chalone Pinot Blanc (a Burgundian-style white that can live for several years in the bottle), Chalone Chenin Blanc (dry with a wonderful affinity for food), and Chalk Hill Pinot Gris. Jack Weiss, managing partner of five of Italian restaurateur Pino Luongo's Coco Pazzo restaurants, says "I can't think of wine without food, so I always tie my summer wines to summer dishes." Italian pinot grigio with melon, pinot bianco with tuna carpaccio or prosciutto. And, he says, if you can find a dry Vermentino from Liguria, grab it. "When they're fresh they are rich textured and luscious with fish," he says, "I love them to death and I drink them all summer." Summer Rosés Paul Bolles-Beaven, managing partner of New York's celebrated Union Square Cafe, says, "Honestly, what I love in the summer is a good dry rosé. When well made, this wine can stand up to grilled foods, and there is nothing prettier than a chilled glass of rosé." Bolles-Beaven laments the confusion, in the minds of many, of true rosé with white zinfandel. Among his favorites: rosé from Italy of 100% sangiovese made by Castello di Ama; a rosé from the south of France, Domaine de Fondrèche, Côtes du Ventoux (he's currently drinking and serving the 1997); and one from Spain made by Marques de Caceres. Picard agrees that "Rosé is nice for many reasons: it's light, a little fruity, fresh in the mouth and full-bodied rosés such as tavel rosé go very well with spicy dishes." However, the unfortunate association in America of rosé wine with white zinfandel has prevented many from trying some of California's excellent wines in this category. So now is the season to take that leap of faith and open a chilled bottle of some of my favorites: Bonny Doon Gris de Cigare, Joseph Phelps Vin du Mistral Grenache Rosé, Flora Springs Sangiovese Rosata, and one that wine writer Robert Parker dubbed the best rosé in the United States, Swanson Vineyards Sangiovese Rosato -- all seriously good. The Reds of Summer The pinot noir grape produces the lightest, least tannic red wine, especially if it is a lighter, less barrel-aged and early release style. Oregon's pinot noir also makes an excellent summer wine. So does Trimbach's Pinot Noir Reserve from Alsace. It's made without any oak aging, and the fresh fruit flavor is captivating. Recommended reds from Spain include tempranillo, a very fruity wine and one of Sanchez's favorites and vina borsao, which Kline says is very beaujolais-like in texture and flavor. Picard, of course, thinks that a chilled French beaujolais is ideal for summer, but he also favors chilled syrah and cabernet franc. Hoehn of Quail Lodge favors a chilled Chalone Pinot Noir, and another somewhat atypical red for summer: Galante Vineyards Red Rose Hill Carmel Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, is a unique and serious wine but one that is remarkable with spicy food -- or a grilled leg of lamb. Weiss of Coco Pazzo relishes Italian dolcetto -- a young and fresh one -- with sautéed mushrooms, with chicken liver crostini. And there is a unique marriage beteween a lighter barbera, served chilled if you like, with beef carpaccio. Could he leave out chianti -- never. Weiss says that the younger chiantis (primary grape is sangiovese) are wonderful with chicken, lighter summer dishes and appetizers. A Bit of the Bubbly Champagne is an idyllic summer wine, and although France is famous for it, other sparkling wines made by the methode champenoise can be found from all over the world. For example, "All cavas -- the Spanish version of Champagne -- are food for summer," says Sanchez. Kline recommends two: cristalino brut, a very light, mineral and lemony; and sumarroca cava extra bruit, a sparkling wine that is very citrusy and dry with apple flavor notes. Weiss says that prosecco is the most popular wine in Venice, and a very social wine with which to start a meal. For myself, when summer is in full swing, I have a particular soft spot for pink champagnes. Two favorites are Scharffenberger Brut Rosé, and Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Noir. Summer Alternatives If you are entertaining under-age company (at home or abroad) or guests who don't indulge, summer is the perfect season for bottled still and sparkling waters, and the undisputed queen of summer drinks, iced tea. Bottled waters come domestic and imported, fruit-flavored (unsweetened) or unflavored, and flavors actually range from delicate to distinctive depending on the mineral content of the water. In general, low-mineral content water acts as a palate cleanser, and high-mineral content water makes an excellent digestive. Iced tea -- so tricky to brew perfectly -- now comes in bottles. Republic of Tea bottled teas are available in seven refreshing flavors, including one decaffeinated, at restaurants. And, of course, summer is the perfect time to make sun tea, which is also the foolproof brew: In the morning, put 8 tea bags in a 1-quart glass jar. Fill with tap water or low-mineral content still bottled water. Put lid on jar and set jar outside in the sun for the day. In the evening, discard the tea bags and serve the tea over ice cubes.

LIQUID ASSETS - June 1999

E-mail This Page To A Friend

BACK