Wine Bars
Pouilly-fuissé avec moi?
By Nancy Ross Ryan
That's what my significant other asked me recently. I raised one eyebrow. I thought he was being risque. But he was simply inviting me to join him for a glass of pouilly-fuissé at one of Chicago's wine bars -- which have materialized like magic. It's as if someone rubbed Aladdin's lamp and made a wish: Let there be havens for the harried, unhurried harbors where you can drop anchor when you're feeling stressed, and when you're not quite up to the whole ritual of dinner: pick a place, make a reservation, nagivate a full menu, order three courses -- two more than you really want -- and a full bottle of wine that doesn't go with any of them. The Wine Bar Genie, a congenial spirit, has conjured up soothing alternatives to full-scale dining and to the carryout Thai or dial-a-pizza gambits. Perhaps the best part of wine bars is the fringe benefit: The good ones demystify wine, are snob-free zones, and you can learn as much as you wish about wines in a relaxed, friendly atmosphere. A list of our favorites follow. Some are primarily wine bars; some are restaurants with wine bars, and some are restaurants with great wine programs. All of them have wine-friendly food, and many offer flights (three or four tasting-size glasses of related wines).
UNDILUTED WINE BARS
Webster's Wine Bar: One of Chicago's first and still one of the best. Trés European, very laid-back and totally comfy. More than 30 wines by the glass and by the taste plus 10 flights. Each month wines from a special region are featured by glass, bottle and flight. Great wine descriptions, and if you want to know more, just ask the friendly, informed waitstaff. There's a big by-the-bottle list, and good selection of premium spirits -- including Cognac and Armagnac -- Port, Sherry and dessert wines plus beer and Champagne. Monthly wine letter and special tastings. Outdoor dining in season. Hours: 5 p.m.-2 a.m., Mon.-Fri.; 3:30 p.m.-3 a.m. Sat.; 3:30 p.m.-2 a.m. Sun. 1480 W. Webster (773) 868-0608.
404 Wine Bar: One of the newest (August, 1999) and nicest. Very cozy. Two rooms, each with a fireplace, one with some well-placed overstuffed chairs. Two flights -- one red, one white -- change weekly, and are posted on a chalkboard in the front room. There are 30 wines by the glass, more by the bottle, plus a short well-chosen reserve list. Patio dining weather permitting. Hours: 5 p.m.-2 a.m. daily. 2852 N. Southport Ave. (773) 404-5886.
Cru Cafe and Wine Bar: A Gold Coast newcomer (July 1999), this chic wine bar (with tiny chandeliers) offers weekly flights, weekly by-the-glass specials and a large half-bottle selection. The bottle list is 400-strong and ranges from moderately to stratospherically priced. There are also fine spirits and dessert wines. Of special interest is a selection of cheese flights. Outdoor dining in season. Hours: 11 a.m.-1 a.m. Sun.-Fri.; until 2 a.m. Sat. 888 N. Wabash Ave. (312) 337-4001.
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Harry's Velvet Room: Downstairs but definitely upscale, Harry's is dark, mysterious and romantic (but bring your seeing-eye bat to read the menu). The very carefully chosen wine menu offers 14 wines and 5 Champagnes by the glass, many hard to find elsewhere. The bottle list is pricey, but the end -- selectivity -- justifies the means. The same applies to the spirits and liqueurs, and the 29 signature martinis. Hours: 5 p.m.-4 a.m., Mon.-Fri.; 7 p.m.-5 a.m., Sat.; 7 p.m.-4 a.m., Sun. 56 W. Illinois St. (312) 527-5600.
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Bin 36: The new wine kid on the block, Dan Sachs (partner in Spruce restaurant), wants people to learn about wine outside a classroom. So he created (as of November 1) a wine bar-store-restaurant combination that features a retail demonstration space where you can learn how to decant wine, to tell if it's corked and how to match food and wine. The Tavern serves wine and appetizers at a bar, couches and booths, by the glass or by the flights. For a full dinner repair to The Cellar dining room. Tavern hours: 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. lunch; 2 p.m.-5 p.m. small menu; 5 p.m.-11 p.m. dinner, daily. 339 N. Dearborn (312) 755-WINE (9463).
(For a major restaurant review: click here)
RESTAURANTS WITH WINE BARS
Hudson Club: A River North '40s-style supper club designed by Jordon Mozer, the Hudson Club's bar area -- which seats about 80 at high tables and a long bar -- offers 24 wine flights, 100 wines by the glass and 200 by the bottle. The full draft and bottle beer menu also offers flights. A special bar menu is small, seasonal and includes cheese flights and, usually, flights of caviar. There are monthly wine tastings, and the option of staying for dinner: creative American cuisine. Bar hours: Mon.-Wed. 3 p.m.-12 a.m.; Thurs.-Fri., 3 p.m.-2 a.m.; Sat., 5 p.m.-2 a.m. 504 North Wells (312) 467-1947.
(To return to NRA 2000 ARTICLE click here)
Trocadero: Walk down a stairway through the entrance of a Paris Metro station and step into another era and an underground European cafe where you can enjoy 38 wines by the glass and seven wine flights. The large by-the-bottle menu focuses on French, Italian and Spanish wines, and for beer drinkers there's a fine selection of draft and bottled European and American specialty brews. The bistro food menu is very wine- and beer-friendly with lots of small courses. Outdoor dining in season. (closed)
RESTAURANTS WITH WINE PROGRAMS
The Stained Glass Wine Bar, Bistro & Cellar: Worth a drive to Evanston, The Stained Glass Bistro boasts 10 flights, a monthly by-the-glass sweet wine and a special cellar selection. By the way, the stained glass is a play on words: as in wine-stained glasses, not colored glass windows. There's a huge wooden wine rack that doubles as a room divider and holds many of the hundred bottles on the wine list. When you order a flight, it comes with its own business card with the name of the wines and a tagline, for example, "Syrah & Grenache, etc. -- Underdogs of the wine world." Check out the great ale and beer selection. Hours: 5 p.m.-12:30 a.m. Mon., Wed., Thurs. and Sun.; 5 p.m.-2 a.m. Fri. and Sat., Closed Tues. 1734 Benson Ave., Evanston (847) 864-8600.
Vintage Raw Bar & Grill: This stylish new restaurant (April 1999) offers a vineyard room and a downstairs wine cellar. The menu and the staff are friendly to vinophiles who drop in mid-week to order a glass of wine and an appetizer and finish with a dessert wine and dessert. Flights will be taking off soon. The list specializes in small winemakers and allocated wines that are hard to find in your local wine store. (closed) |