Premium tequilas not only make great drinks, they make sublime food.
By Nancy Ross Ryan
Photograph by Eric Futran
Premium tequila is an artisinal, hand-crafted spirit that comes in four types, from least- to longest-aged: blanco or plata (white or silver), oro (or gold), reposado (rested), and añejo (aged) tequilas. Premium blanco, oro and reposado tequilas are akin in quality to the finest premium "white" spirits -- gins, rums and vodkas. Añejo, or wood-aged tequilas, can be comparable to fine Cognacs. However, tequila has a flavor and aroma all its own: piquant, peppery, herbal, even floral or fruity. And different tequilas add different flavor notes. But in cooking, just as in drinking, it is absolutely necessary to use the best.
The best, and also the worst, tequila comes from five Mexican states (Jalisco, Guanajuato, Michoacan, Nayarit and Tamaulipas) and all are made from blue agave. The spirit takes its name from the town of Tequila in the state of Jalisco, Mexico, where most tequila distilleries are located. Reading the label will steer you to premium tequilas. The best tequilas are made from 100 percent blue agave -- and the label says so. The agaves' starchy hearts, or piñas, are steamed to extract the juice; the juice is fermented, then it is distilled twice in copper stills. The label will also indicate the age of the tequila: Blanco tequila is bottled directly after distillation. Oro tequila is aged up to two months. Reposado is aged in American oak casks for two to 12 months before being bottled. And añejo tequilas are aged in American or French oak for one to two years -- some longer. "Estate bottled" is a further guarantee of quality. It means that the agave plants were grown, fermented, aged and bottled on the producer's estate. Last but not least the N.O.M. (Norma Official Mexicana) registration number on the label means that the tequila meets or exceeds Mexican government quality and authenticity standards.
Cooking with tequila is a voyage of discovery because few written recipes exist; however, American chefs (especially in white tablecloth Mexican restaurants) are exploring the possibilities of tequila in dishes such as añejo-poached pears, savory sauces and swordfish ceviche. I have had good luck using the following rule of thumb:
And if you're the kind of cook who enjoys drinking (while cooking or after) here's another rule of thumb:
A word to the wise: Never cook with anything you wouldn't be happy to drink.
Serves 4 as an appetizer course.
1 lb medium shrimp, peeled, deveined, uncooked or blanchedIn a 2-quart non-reactive bowl (glass, ceramic, steel or enamel). Mix all ingredients well, tossing gently with spatulas. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate, unwrapping and tossing occasionally. Marinate, refrigerated, 8 hours for uncooked shrimp, 4 hours for blanched shrimp.
1 small red onion, peeled, thinly sliced into rings
1/2 cup freshly squeezed lime juice (about 3 large limes)
1/4 cup Premium silver (white) tequila
1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro
1/2 cup chopped seedless (English) cucumber
salt to taste, about 1/2 teaspoon
1/4 teaspoon ground cayenne
2 teaspoons sugar
To serve: Drain, discarding marinade. Distribute ingredients evenly in 4 glass or ceramic dishes. Accompany with baked tortilla chips and top, if desired, with a dollop of salsa.
Serves 4 as main course.
1 pound penne or farfalle pastaCook pasta in 5 quarts of boiling salted water to al dente stage. Drain but do not rinse.
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, peeled, finely chopped
1 teaspoon crushed garlic (from jar)
1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes, or to taste
1/4 cup of premium white or gold tequila
1 15-ounce can diced tomatoes
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste
1/2 cup heavy cream
Freshly ground black pepper
Chopped flat-leaf parsley (optional)
While the pasta is cooking, heat olive oil in a 2-1/2 quart non-aluminum saucepan. Add onion and, over medium heat, saute, stirring, until onion is translucent but not browned. Add garlic; stir and saute for 1 minute. Add red pepper flakes; stir and sauté for 1 minute. Add tequila, tomatoes and tomato paste and salt. Bring to boil, lower heat and simmer until sauce is thickened, about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add cream and simmer, stirring, for about 5 minutes. In a large bowl, toss drained pasta with sauce.
Divide among 4 heated bowls. Garnish each with freshly ground pepper and chopped parsley, if desired.
Serves 6
3/4 cup sugarPreheat oven to 325°F. Heat a large kettle full of water to boiling. While water is heating, in a heavy-gauge saucepan combine sugar, water and 2 tablespoon of the tequila. Heat, over medium heat, stirring and tilting the pan until the mixture caramelizes and turns medium brown. Be careful not to burn. Pour caramelized sugar into six 4-ounce (one-half cup) custard cups, tilting bottoms to cover. Set aside.
2 tablespoons water
5 tablespoons añejo tequila, divided
2 cups whole (4%) milk, OR 1 cup milk and 1 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup honey
2 eggs
4 yolks
In a 2-quart, heavy-gauge saucepan, combine remaining tequila, milk and honey. Bring to a boil, stirring, then reduce heat. In a separate bowl, beat eggs and yolks together until well blended. Add about one-third of the hot milk, whisking constantly to temper. Then add egg-milk mixture to hot milk in pan, whisking constantly. Pour mixture through a sieve into the reserved custard cups. Set cups into a large 2-inch deep baking pan. Fill pan with the heated water from the kettle up to mid-point on the molds. Bake in preheated oven until custards are just set, about 30 to 40 minutes. Remove from oven. Let cool in baking pan. Remove from pan; cover tops with plastic wrap and refrigerate. Let chill for 8 hours or overnight.
To unmold, run knife around edge of custard. Place individual serving bowl or plate on top and invert custard into bowl. Scrape any caramel sauce over dessert.
Serves 4
4 boneless, skin-on chicken breast halvesIn a large 10-inch skillet heat olive oil over medium heat. Brown chicken breasts, skin-side down first, turning once, until golden brown on both sides. Remove chicken to a warmed plate and reserve.
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1/4 cup tequila
1/2 cup freshly squeezed lime juice
2 tablespoons honey
Turn off heat (so tequila doesn't flambé). Deglaze pan with tequila, stirring bottom to loosen caramelized bits. Add lime juice and honey, stirring to mix. Cook briefly over medium heat. Return chicken to skillet, spooning sauce over top. Cover tightly and cook over very low heat until chicken is tender, about 30 minutes. If necessary, add a little water or chicken broth by tablespoonsful to pan to prevent burning.
Serve with rice and a green salad.
2 red onions, cut into rings widthwiseHeat your grill to high. Brush the onions with olive oil and salt and char them on the grill. Do the same with all the peppers and tomatoes (do not oil or salt) placing them in a covered container when blackened on the outside. By placing all the components in a covered container they will steam together and render a charred veggie stock in the bottom of the container. When they have sat for _ hour remove and let cool. Remove the stems from the peppers and the cores from the tomatoes then roughly chop the elements in a food processor. In a saucepan, bring your chicken stock to a simmer then add the veggie purée and half of the cilantro. While stirring, reduce the mixture to the original consistency of the purée. Add the dark beer and lime juice and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the tequila and simmer for 5 minutes. Finish with the rest of the cilantro and salt to taste. This is great with any bird and perfect with rabbit.
4 red peppers
4 green peppers
8 roma tomatoes
2 poblano peppers
2 jalapeño peppers
2 cups chicken stock or broth
1 cup lime juice
12 oz dark beer, preferably Negro Modelo
6 oz of Jose Cuervo Tequila
_ cup chopped cilantro, firmly packed salt to taste
Serves 6
2 cups of Jose Cuervo TequilaYou can either smoke the jalapeños in a covered barbeque or over an open flame. To smoke over an open flame, you will need a shallow pan with a perforated liner and a cover. Line the pan with the chips and place over a medium flame. When the chips begin to smoke, place the jalapeños in the perforated liner and cover the pan. Turn the flames down to low and smoke for 10 minutes. While the jalapeños are still hot, place in the tequila and cover. Allow the tequila to sit for 48 hours.
4 jalapeños, halved but not seeded
2 cups wood chips, hickory or mesquite, soaked in water
For the Ceviche:
2 lbs blue marlin or swordfish, dicedCombine all ingredients in a non-reactive bowl or container and allow to sit, refrigerated, for 5 hours. Serve in a martini glass garnished with avocado, green onion and tortilla chips.
2 green peppers, diced
2 red peppers, diced
1 red onion, diced
1 jicama, diced
3 roma tomatoes, diced
_ cup chopped cilantro
2 cups lime juice
1 cup lemon juice
1 cup orange juice
2 cups smoked jalapeño tequila
1 cup coconut milk
Salt to taste