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Berried treasure
Get them at their peak! Now's the time to stop at your local farm stand or market for some juicy berries.

By Nancy Ross Ryan

RELATED ARTICLES
Berry Quick Fixes
Summer Jewels
Handle with Care

Berries come early in summer's fruit line-up. No sooner does the weather turn warm then they seem to pop out. But like the sweetest of dreams, they vanish far too soon. So gather your berries while you may, to savor them plain or in a wide array of color, and flavor, packed dishes.

Not only are berries beautiful and delicious, they have nutritional powers that eclipse those of many other fruits. One cup of strawberries has more vitamin C than a whole orange, and raspberries and blackberries contain as much fiber, cup for cup, as oatmeal. Best of all, you can sit yourself own and eat your fill with abandon since calories are almost nonexistent in berries. Consider these impressive stats: 1 cup of blackberries has only 74 calories; blueberries, 82 calories; raspberries, 61 calories; and strawberries have 45 calories.

The easiest way to enjoy berries is on their own, pop a handful in your mouth and let the juices coat your tongue and chin. Let's face it, you can hardly improve on their natural perfection, but over time, the summer berry has inspired many recipes that heighten their flavor and prolong our eating pleasure.

Berries, of course, star in many luscious desserts. Some are elegant, like our fresh Mixed Berry Tart, which happily layers strawberries, raspberries and blueberries over a flaky, tender crust topped with vanilla pastry cream. Others are more homey, like our Berry-Peach Crisp and Star-Spangled Raspberry Shortcakes. We've also reinvigorated some heirloom recipes to suit today's palate--Blackberry Fool, a Blueberry Grunt and Summer Pudding, all traditional English desserts. Berries can play a starring role in main-dishes as well. Our Strawberry Tabouli makes a satisfying summer lunch or dinner, and our Very Berry Shake perks up breakfast in an instant.

With the berry season at its peak from May through August, now's the time to shop the farmers' market and farm stands, sample the seasonal specials offered by your local supermarket, or even pick your own strawberries, raspberries and blackberries. Eat the sweetest berries out of hand, top the tart ones with a sprinkling of sugar and use any and all to add color, freshness and a touch of sweetness to dishes ranging from pancakes and parfaits to dips and salads.


Star-Spangled Raspberry Shortcakes
8 SERVINGS LACTO
If the fresh raspberries and jewel-toned strawberry sauce that compose this festive dessert aren't enough of a reason to make you dig into it, the biscuits are so low in fat, you can enjoy them without any quilt whatsoever.

Biscuits
1-1/2 cups unbleached flour
1/4 cup sugar
2 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. baking soda
1/2 tsp. salt
2 tsp. grated lemon rind
1/3 cup buttermilk
1/4 cup vegetable oil
4 cups very ripe strawberries, hulled
1/4 cup sugar or to taste
8 cups ripe fresh raspberries, 8 reserved
1 cup whipped cream (optional)

BISCUIT: Preheat oven to 425°F. Coat baking sheet with non-stick cooking spray In large bowl, mix flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, salt and lemon rind. In small bowl, mix buttermilk and oil. Add to flour mixture, stirring with fork just until mixture comes together. (Mixture will be lumpy; do not overmix.)

Sprinkle work surface with flour. Turn out biscuit dough and with lightly floured hands pat dough into a 7-inch circle, about 1/2 inch thick. Use a 2-1/4-inch star or biscuit cutter, cut out biscuits, gathering up scraps. Transfer to prepared baking sheet. Bake until golden brown on top and bottom, 10 to 12 minutes.

Meanwhile, in food processor, purée strawberries with sugar. Transfer to saucepan and bring to boil over medium heat, stirring often. Reduce heat to low and cook 3 minutes. Transfer to bowl to cool.

To assemble, split biscuits in half with fork or with sharp, serrated knife. Place bottom half of biscuit on dessert plate. Cover lightly with some strawberry sauce. Add 1/4 cup raspberries. Top with 2 tablespoons whipped cream if desired. Cover with biscuit top. Surround shortcake with a ring of strawberry sauce. Top biscuit with 1 teaspoon whipped cream if desired, and a single raspberry. Repeat with remaining shortcakes.

PER SERVING: 285 CAL.; 5G PROT.; 8G TOTAL FAT (1G SAT. FAT); 51G CARB.; 1MG CHOL.; 168MG SOD.; 11G FIBER.
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Strawberry Tabouli
8 SERVINGS DAIRY-FREE
Adding strawberries to a traditional tabouli salad makes a refreshing and colorful warm-weather entree.

1-1/2 cups bulgur wheat
1 to 2 tsp. salt
2 cups boiling water
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 cups finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
3/4 cup finely chopped mint
4 cups chopped strawberries
1 cup toasted pecan pieces

In large bowl, combine bulgur and salt. Add boiling water, cover and let sit for 30 minutes. Remove cover and fluff with fork. Stir in oil and lemon juice. Add parsley, mint and strawberries. Cover and refrigerate.

When ready to serve, add toasted pecans and toss to mix, or serve with pecans sprinkled on top.

PER SERVING: 247 CAL.; 5G PROT.; 16G TOTAL FAT (2G SAT. FAT); 31G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 194MG SOD.; 8G FIBER.
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Blackberry Fool
6 SERVINGS LACTO
This traditional English dessert dates back to the 16th century and showcases the incomparable flavor of blackberries. Sweetened whipped cream was the standard component, but this version offers another alternative--an amazing faux crème fraîche made with cottage cheese that's the brainchild of pastry expert and cookbook author Maida Heatter.

Maida's Cream
4-oz. carton 2% low-fat cottage cheese (1-1/2 cups)
2 Tbs. sugar or to taste
1/2 tsp. vanilla extract
1-1/4 lbs. ripe blackberries, rinsed and patted dry
Scant 1/4 cup water
1/2 cup sugar or to taste

CREAM: In food processor, combine all ingredients. Process, stopping to scrape down sides of bowl as necessary, until cheese is thick and creamy, about 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer to bowl, cover and refrigerate until completely chilled.

Select 6 perfect berries and reserve for garnish. Place remaining berries in medium saucepan with water. Cover and bring to boil over medium heat, stirring so berries don't stick to bottom and burn.

Uncover berries and stir. Cook over medium heat until berries have released their juices and fruit is softened, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat. Transfer berries to food processor and process until smooth. Strain berries through a sieve set over a medium bowl. Using wooden spoon or spatula, press purée through sieve; discard seeds. Add sugar, cover and refrigerate overnight or up to 1 day.

To serve, in tall goblet or parfait glass, layer 2 tablespoons blackberry purée alternately with 1/4 cup cream, starting with purée and ending with cream. Garnish with one perfect blackberry and a sprig of fresh mint. Let each person stir to taste as they eat.

PER SERVING: 147 CAL.; 3G PROT.; 1G TOTAL FAT (0 SAT. FAT); 34G CARB.; 2MG CHOL.; 77MG SOD.; 5G FIBER.
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Mixed Berry Tart
12 SERVINGS LACTO
This dessert has the look and flavor of a free-standing bakery tart, complete with pastry cream. If using strawberries and blackberries, choose ones that are uniform in size.

Pastry Cream
2 cups milk or oat milk
1/3 cup sugar
Pinch salt
1/2 cup unbleached flour
1/2 tsp. vanilla extract
4 drops orange oil or extract

Crust
1 cup unbleached flour
1/3 cup whole wheat pastry flour
1/3 cup canola oil
3 Tbs. sugar
1/2 tsp. baking powder
Pinch salt
3 to 4 Tbs. ice water
3 cups whole berries, 3 varieties: strawberries, raspberries, blueberries or blackberries, hulled
1/3 cup apple jelly

PASTRY CREAM: In medium saucepan, whisk together 1-1/2 cups milk, sugar and salt.

Put flour into small bowl. Add remaining 1/2 cup milk little by little, stirring to make a smooth paste. Press paste through sieve with wooden spoon into saucepan with milk-sugar mixture. Add vanilla and orange oil or extract. Stirring constantly, bring to a boil over medium heat. Continue cooking and stirring 6 minutes longer. Scrape into bowl using spatula. Place plastic film directly on top and chill 4 to 6 hours. (Makes 2 cups)

Crust: In food processor, combine flours, oil, sugar, baking powder and salt. With motor running, add ice water by the tablespoonful and process just until dough comes together, about 4 minutes.

Turn dough out on work surface and briefly knead into a ball. Wrap and chill in refrigerator about 1 hour.

Preheat oven to 375°F. Coat 9inch tart pan with non-stick cooking spray. Place two 15-inch lengths of wax paper on counter, overlapping in middle. Place dough in middle. Cover with two additional sheets of overlapping wax paper. Roll dough out into 13- to 14-inch circle about 1/8 inch thick.

Carefully peel wax paper from top and transfer dough to tart pan. Ease dough into pan, pat evenly and press edges into sides of pan. Press with tines of fork around top of crust to make decorative design.

Prick bottom of dough at 1-inch intervals with fork. Bake until crust is golden and edges begin to shrink from sides of pan, 15 to 18 minutes. Remove to wire rack and let cool. Remove side of pan and slide crust onto serving plate using spatula.

Spread cooled pastry cream evenly into baked tart shell. Arrange berries in concentric rings over pastry cream, larger berries should be outside, smaller berries toward center.

Heat apple jelly in small non-aluminum saucepan until melted, whisking to make smooth. With pastry brush, dab and brush apple jelly over tops of berries. To serve, slice with serrated knife into 12 equal pieces.

PER SERVING: 199 CAL.; 4G PROT.; 7G TOTAL FAT (1G SAT. FAT); 30G CARB.; 5MG CHOL.; 23MG SOD.; 2G FIBER.
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Very Berry Shake
1 SERVING LACTO 30
This drink can be made with just about any fruit, not just berries. It's delicious, colorful and hearty enough for breakfast and big enough to share with a friend.

1 generous cup of chopped strawberries, whole blueberries or mixed berries
1/2 cup low-fat or non-fat yogurt or rice milk
1 tsp. sugar or to taste
1/4 tsp. vanilla extract
2 ice cubes

In blender, combine all ingredients. Process on and off until finely chopped, then blend on high speed until smooth and creamy.

PER SHAKE: 143 CAL.; 5G PROT.; 1G TOTAL FAT (0 SAT. FAT); 31G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 59MG SOD.; 5G FIBER.

VARIATION: For a high-protein breakfast shake (or snack), add 1 to 2 tablespoons soy protein powder.
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Berry-Peach Crisp
8 SERVINGS DAIRY-FREE
Tart blueberries and perfectly ripe strawberries and peaches give this crisp its delicate sweetness.

6 medium ripe peaches, peeled, halved and pitted
3 cups fresh strawberries, quartered
1 cup blueberries, rinsed, stemmed and patted dry
1 Tbs. unbleached flour
1/2 cup packed light brown sugar
1 tsp. grated lemon peel
1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon

Topping
1 cup rolled oats
1/2 cup graham cracker crumbs (about 4 crackers)
1/4 cup packed dark brown sugar
1/4 cup canola oil

Preheat oven to 375°F. Lightly coat a 13- by 9-inch baking dish with with non-stick cooking spray.

In large bowl, combine peaches, berries, flour, sugar, lemon peel and cinnamon. Mix gently with rubber spatula and transfer to prepared dish.

Topping: In small bowl, combine oats, graham cracker crumbs, sugar and oil. Mix with hands to thoroughly distribute oil. Sprinkle crumble topping over blueberries. Bake until blueberries are bubbling in center and topping is browned, 40 to 50 minutes.

To serve, spoon crisp into dishes while still warm.

PER SERVING: 247 CAL.; 3G PROT.; 8G TOTAL FAT (1G SAT. FAT); 44G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 23MG SOD.; 4G FIBER.
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Blueberry Grunt
8 SERVINGS DAIRY-FREE 30
This old-fashioned New England dessert is an irresistible combination of blueberries and dumplings cooked on top of the stove and served warm. ice cream makes a wonderful accompaniment.

4 cups (2 pints) blueberries, rinsed, stemmed and patted dry
1 cup packed light brown sugar
1 cup unbleached flour
1/2 cup whole wheat pastry flour
2 tsp. baking powder
1/4 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
1/4 tsp. grated nutmeg
3/4 cup milk or oat milk

In large non-aluminum saucepan, combine berries and 1/2 cup brown sugar. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until berries come to a boil.

Meanwhile, sift flours, baking powder, salt, remaining sugar, cinnamon and nutmeg into medium bowl. Add milk, mixing just to moisten.

Drop dumplings by tablespoonfuls into boiling berries. Cover with tight-fitting lid. Lower heat slightly. Cook without lifting lid, about 15 minutes.

To serve, using large spoon, transfer dumplings into bowl. Surround with berries. Break dumplings open with two forks. Serve warm, topped with vanilla ice cream or non-dairy frozen vanilla dessert.

PER SERVING: 292 CAL.; 4G PROT.; 1G TOTAL FAT (0 SAT. FAT); 69G CARB.; 3MG CHOL.; 105MG SOD.; 3G FIBER.
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Summer Pudding
10 SERVINGS DAIRY-FREE
Summer pudding is an old-time English dessert that makes use of stale white bread and fresh summer berries, lightly cooked to release their juices. It's lovely served on its own or with whipped cream. Use blueberries, strawberries and raspberries.

14 to 16 1/2-inch-thick slices firm Italian bread, crusts removed
8 cups berries, hulled, rinsed and dried
2/3 cup sugar

In large, non-aluminum saucepan, combine berries and sugar. Cook over medium heat until sugar is dissolved and berries release their juice but still retain some shape, about 10 minutes. Place berries in large sieve over bowl to catch juices.

Swirl some of the berry juice in the bottom and up sides of flat bottom, glass or ceramic mold or bowl with a 3-quart capacity. Cover bottom and sides up to 1-1/2 inches from top of mold with bread slices, cutting pieces to fit any holes. Pour a little more reserved juice over bread on sides. Add half the fruit. Top with layer of bread, piecing to fit. Cover with remaining fruit, then with layer of bread, piecing to fit. Pour in all but 1/2 cup remaining juice, brushing with pastry brush to cover bread. Cover top bread layer with plastic wrap. Place flat plate or pot or smaller mold on top. Weight with four 15-oz. cans (pumpkin, beans, tomatoes). Set on plate to catch any drips. Refrigerate overnight.

To serve, remove weights and plastic wrap. Loosen edges of pudding carefully with spatula. Invert onto serving plate. Brush any white bread spots with reserved juice. Slice into wedges with serrated knife.

PER SERVING: 203 CAL.; 4G PROT.; 1G TOTAL FAT (0 SAT. FAT); 47G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 209MG SOD.; 5G FIBER.
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BERRY QUICK FIXES
  • Sprinkle fresh berries directly over tossed green salads.
  • Drop sliced strawberries or small berries onto pancake batter as it cooks. When one side of the pancake is set and small bubbles appear, flip to other side and cook until done.
  • Add 1 cup of chopped strawberries or whole blueberries or raspberries to your favorite muffin batter.
  • Stir fresh berries into yogurt or puddings before serving.
  • Fill thin crepes with berries and a spoon or two of sweetened yogurt, then sprinkle crepes lightly with powdered sugar.
  • To make berry parfait, alternately layer fresh berries with yogurt and, if desired, granola in a parfait glass. Chill.
  • Strawberry sandwiches are surprisingly delicious. Shingle slice strawberries on whole-grain bread spread with light cream cheese; serve open face.
  • Mash or purée berries with cream cheese, ricotta or tofu.
  • For spreads, mash berries and sweeten to taste with sugar (if needed), then add chopped mint, lemon or orange zest, and a hint of vanilla, cinnamon or nutmeg.
  • For dips, add minced fresh herbs, such as cilantro, mint and thyme, and spices, such as curry, cumin and ground coriander, to mashed berries.
  • Add fresh berries to cold beverages like ice tea or sparkling water.
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    SUMMER JEWELS
    Blackberries
    (Close relatives are the dewberry, and loganberry.) Widely available from May through August, shop for firm, deep red-purple berries without hulls attached. Hulls mean they're not fully mature. Eat out of hand; bake in pies and cobblers; purée in fools; mix other berries. The large seeds may be a drawback in some recipes.

    Blueberries
    (Large-seed Huckleberries, which grow wild, and the tart, wild bilberry or whortleberry are relatives.) Cultivated blueberries, a major U.S. crop for the past 60 years, are most likely, to be found at, market. Smaller, more intensely. flavored wild blueberries are only available fresh where they are grown-or frozen. Blueberries are available June through September; imported berries are available almost year-round. Blueberries, like strawberries, are an all-purpose berry.

    Currants
    Not to be confused with the dried zante grapes from Greece that are sold as currants. True currants are tiny white, red or black berries native to northern Europe, and are more popular there. Some currants are grown in the United States. They're hard to find but worth looking for in farmers' markets from June through August. Use them for eating out of hand and as you would use blueberries, strawberries and raspberries.

    Elderberries
    Purple-black tiny clusters of berries are the fruit of the elderberry tree and available only locally in the fall, beginning in September. A little too tart to eat out of hand, they're-marvelous cooked in sauces, chutneys, pies, muffins, jams and jellies.

    Gooseberries
    A relative of the currant, gooseberries are large, the size of small grapes, translucent and green; some smooth and some are hairy. Too tart to be eaten out of hand they are marvelous cooked in pies, jams and fools.

    Loganberries
    Close relatives of the cranberry, also called cowberry, these tiny tart, red berries are used like cranberries and are very hard to find fresh, except in their native Scandinavia, Russia, Canada and Maine.

    Mulberries
    These white, red and purplish-black berries are not cultivated and are therefore difficult to find. But the red varieties grow wild on trees in the eastern, southern and mid-western United States, ripening in summer. They're sweet and delicate in flavor, and they can be eaten out of hand or used as an all-purpose berry.

    Raspberries
    The undisputed royalty of the berry kingdom comes in white, yellow, purple, red and black. Red is the most common variety, available May through September. Raspberries are the most fragile of berries and should be used the day of purchase.

    Strawberries
    Wild berries are small, sweet and hard find. Cultivated berries are widely available June through September. Smaller berries are usually more flavorful than giant berries. Strawberries are the single most versatile berry, delightful in both sweet and savory dishes.
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    HANDLE WITH CARE

    1. Do not rinse, hull or stem berries until ready to use.

    2. Rinse berries in a colander under cold running water. Spread gently on paper toweling or clean kitchen towels, and air dry or gently pat dry.

    3. To store berries in the refrigerator, pick over and discard soft or bruised berries. Then place in open baskets or colanders and refrigerate uncovered. Blueberries keep the longest--up to one wee. Raspberries should be used the same day. Unripe strawberries may be left for one day at room temperature to ripen.


  • Vegetarian Times Magazine
    Issue: July, 1998

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