how sweet it is.
This New World jewel proves a priceless kitchen treasure both on and off the cob. By Nancy Ross Ryan
Roasted Corn Salsa
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Corn: how sweet it is. This New World jewel proves a priceless kitchen treasure both on and off the cob. By Nancy Ross Ryan
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Roasted Corn Salsa |
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Sweet corn season is upon us once more -- an annual recurrence that should evoke a great big WHOOPEE! and have us all running to the supermarket, outdoor farmers' market or the nearest farm. If we fail to celebrate the sweet taste, juicy-crisp texture and enormous versatility of this indigenous American grain, it's only because we take it for granted. My own corn epiphany came after reading Betty Fussell's The Story of Corn (Alfred A. Knopf, 1994) and Crazy for Corn (HarperCollins, 1995). The first is a scholarly but lively compendium of everything; there is to be known about corn history, culture, art, science and agriculture. The second is a cookbook of more than 170 recipes for not only fresh but dried corn in all its amazing variety. It was Fussell's use of fresh corn as an ingredient that raised my cooking to a new level -- beyond the cob. I discovered the versatility of fresh corn kernels, how easy they are to remove from the ears, and how adaptable they are to use in almost any recipe from appetizers to desserts. I also discovered how delicious fresh corn is combined with dried -- in the form of cornmeal.
Stop! Don't throw away the cobs. Put them (minimum six cobs) in a pot, and cover with 2 inches of cold water. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer uncovered for 30 minutes. Remove from heat and strain the liquid through a sieve. Voila! Corn stock that can be frozen and used in soups or to enrich homemade vegetable stocks. (Now throw away the cobs.)
However, in the dead of winter when Florida corn may cost $1 per ear and I have a hankering for Corn Griddlecakes, Corn Batter Bread, Corn Quesadillas or Corn Apple Cobbler, I will definitely make any and all of the following recipes with frozen or canned corn, just as I gratefully use canned whole tomatoes in winter when the grocer's tomatoes are either pale and tasteless or imported and exorbitantly expensive.
Selected Recipes
Fresh corn kernels added at the last minute make this soup memorable. Experiment with the amount of black pepper.
1 bunch scallions (8 to 10), trimmed, sliced In large, heavy-gauge pot lightly sprayed with vegetable oil spray, sauté scallions and yellow onions over medium-low heat until soft and aromatic, about 3 minutes. Add potatoes; cover; cook, stirring frequently to prevent sticking, until nearly tender, about 8 minutes. Add milk. Bring to boil, stirring constantly. Reduce heat. Add salt and pepper. Simmer, covered with lid tilted, until potatoes are tender, about 20 minutes. Mash some of the potatoes in the pot with potato masher to thicken soup. Add corn kernels; cook just until heated through. Ladle into soup bowls and garnish. Makes 6 servings of about 1 cup each. PER 1-CUP SERVING: 114 CAL.; 6G PROT.; .2G TOTAL FAT (.1G SAT. FAT.); 23G CARB.; 2MG CHOL.; 244MG SOD.; 2G FIBER. LACTO
The silk is removed but the inner husks are left on. They not only keep the corn hot but help cook it as well, because the corn "steams" in the husks. 12 ears of corn, husks on Remove tough outer husks on corn ears, leaving on enough thin inner husks to cover kernels completely. Peel back inner husks to base carefully; do not remove. Remove all corn silk and discard. Replace inner husks; tying in one place with knotted strip cut from outer husks. To boil: In very large stock pot or roaster, bring enough water to cover corn to boil . Do not add salt. Add ears; do not crowd. Cook for 1 to 3 minutes, until desired doneness. Remove with tongs. Serve immediately on platter. To grill: Place corn ears on hot charcoal grill, without touching each other. Turn to cook evenly and prevent excessive charring. Grill for 8 to 10 minutes. To roast: Place ears on baking pans (to prevent juice from dripping on oven floor) in 500°F oven for 8 to 10 minutes. Makes 12 servings. PER EAR OF CORN: 83 CAL.; 3G PROT.; 1G TOTAL FAT (0G SAT. FAT.); 19G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 13MG SOD.; 2G FIBER. VEGAN
This simple, satisfying entree or appetizer can be microwaved or grilled in a skillet.
1 dozen 6-inch corn tortillas Sorinkle tortilla with 1/3 cup cheese, 1/4 cup corn kernels. and 1 tsp. parsley. Top with second tortilla. Microwave, covered with waxed paper, at full power for 1-1/2 minutes, or cook on high heat in non-stick pan, turning once, until cheese is melted and corn heated through, about 3 minutes. With sharp kitchen scissors or knife, cut into 4 wedges. Top wedges alternately with about 1/2 tablespoon red and green salsa. If using, garnish with small dollop of sour cream. Makes 6 main-serving quesadillas or 24 appetizer wedges. Variations: Cook corn kernels in a hot, dry skillet until slightly caramelized, about 4 to 5 minutes. Substitute cilantro for flat-leaf parsley. PER QUESADILLA: 298 CAL.; 14G PROT.; 13G TOTAL FAT (7G SAT. FAT.); 35G CAPB.; 33MG CHOL.; 551MG SOD.; 4G FIBER.
Make sure your corn oil is perfectly fresh and sweet. Old or slightly rancid oil will give all baked goods an off taste.
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour In large sifter place flour, cornmeal, sugar, baking powder and salt. Sift together into medium bowl. In separate bowl whisk together milk or rice milk, egg or whites, oil and extract. Add to dry ingredients, mixing lightly with fork. Do not overmix. Fold in corn kernels. Drop by 1/4 cupfuls onto preheated, lightly oiled nonstick griddle or 12-inch frying pan. Cook over medium heat until bubbles appear, about 2 minutes. Turn once; cook other side until golden, about 2 minutes. Makes about 10 to 12 medium pancakes. PER PANCAKE: 102 CAL.; 7G PROT.; 3G TOTAL FAT (1G SAT. FAT.); 20G CARB.; 24MG CHOL.; 275MG SOD.; 1G FIBER. OVO-LACTO
This recipe was inspired by Bernard Clayton's NEW Complete Book of Breads (Simon & Schuster, 1907).
2 1/4-oz. packets active dry yeast In large bowl stir yeast and dry milk into warm water, whisk together milk or milk, egg or whites, and oil, whisking to mix. With large spoon, stir in flour and cornmeal. Mix in bowl of kitchen mixer with dough hooks I to 2 minutes or knead by hand on lightly floured surface 1 to 2 minutes. While mixing or kneading, fold in corn kernels. Divide batter into 2 lightly oiled or non-stick 8- x 4-inch loaf pans. Cover with lightly oiled wax paper and let rise in warm place until doubled, at least 1 hour. Bread is ready to bake when dough holds indentation left by lightly pressing with finger. Bake at 400°F until browned and wooden pick inserted in center comes out dry, about 3 5 minutes. Remove loaves from pans and place on wire racks to cool. Makes 2 loaves of 12 slices per loaf. PER SLICE: 138 CAL.; 4G PROT.; 2G TOTAL FAT (0.3G SAT. FAT.); 25G CARB.; 1MG CHOL.; 148MG SOD.; 2G FIBER. LACTO
Chop the tomatoes and onions small so as not to overshadow the corn. The chopped onions are blanched in hot water to mellow their bite, and a touch of balsamic vinegar enhances the taste.
1 cup corn kernels In hot dry skillet, cook corn kernels until slightly caramelized, about 4 to 5 minutes. In bowl, mix remaining ingredients with corn. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground pepper. Makes about 2-1/2 cups. Variation: For salsa with a kick, add I small jalapeño pepper, deveined, seeded and minced. Helpful hint: To blanch chopped onions, place in a metal sieve suspended in boiling water for 2 to 3 minutes. Remove the sieve and plunge into bowl of ice water. Drain well before adding to salsa. PER TABLESPOON: 5 CAL.; 0.1G PROT.; 0G TOTAL FAT (0G SAT. FAT.); 1G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 1MG SOD.; 0.2G FIBER. VEGAN
Serve this salad with toasted slices of Corn Batter Bread for a simple lunch or supper.
Salad:
Vinaigrette: In large, hot, non-stick dry skillet over high heat, toast corn kernels until they "jump" and char slightly, flipping often with spatula. When kernels are toasted, turn out on paper towels to cool. To blender jar, food processor bowl or jar with lid, add garlic, citrus juices, zest, vinegar, mustard, salt and honey. Process or shake to mix thoroughly. With motor running or while whisking, add oils in thin stream. Set aside. In large salad bowl, add greens, beans, rice, tomatoes and corn. Toss with a small amount of vinaigrette, starting with 1/4 cup. Add more by tablespoon to taste. Makes about 2 cups dressing and servings of salad of about 1 cup each. Variations: Add 4 to 6 pickled jalapeño slices to blender or food processor, or mince and add to jar. Helpful hint: To get the most juice out of limes, use your palms to roll them back and forth firmly across countertop to soften. Then cut and juice with citrus juicer or reamer. PER 1-CUP SERVING WITH DRESSING: 73 CAL.; 3G PROT.; 3G TOTAL FAT (0.3G SAT. FAT.); 10G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; SMG SOD.; 2G FIBER. VEGAN (HONEY)
The bourbon -- corn in yet another form -- is optional.
1 qt. fresh corn kernels
Topping: In large bowl combine corn, apples, sugars, cornstarch, cinnamon and bourbon if desired, tossing to mix. Let stand. To prepare topping, in bowl mix flour, cornmeal, baking powder, sugar and salt. Cut in butter or margarine until mixture is crumbly. Add milk or rice milk and vanilla, stirring with fork to mix. Place apple-corn mixture in 9- x 13-inch baking pan. Drop topping by spoonfuls onto mixture. Bake until topping is golden and corn mixture is bubbling, about 35 minutes. Serve warm in shallow bowls topped if desired, with vanilla ice cream, frozen yogurt or soy ice cream. Makes 8 servings of about 3/4 cup each. PER 3/4-CUP SERVING: 363 CAL.; 5G PROT.; 7G TOTAL FAT (2G SAT. FAT.); 76G CARB.; MG CHOL.; 384MG SOD.; 4G FIBER. LACTO/VEGAN
1 cup dried black-eyed peas, rinsed, picked
Place black-eyed peas in saucepan with 4 cups water. Bring to boil. Lower heat and simmer, covered, 30 minutes. Do not add salt.
While black-eyed peas are cooking, in large, lightly oiled saucepan, sauté scallions until soft but not browned. Add greens; cover. Let steam until greens wilt, about 5 minutes.
When black-eyed peas are tender, season with salt; pepper and cayenne. Stir in rice, greens, corn and vinegar. Keep warm.
In large, lightly oiled non-stick skillet, sauté onion with sugar over medium-high heat to caramelize. Turn with spatula to brown evenly but prevent burning. Onions are done when they are uniformly mahogany brown. This should take about 10 minutes.
To serve, mound onions in center of black-eyed pea mixture and garnish with tomatoes around rim of serving bowl. Makes 8 servings of about I cup each.
PER 1-CUP SERVING: 193 CAL.; 8G PROT.; 1G TOTAL FAT (0.1G SAT. FAT.); 41G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 14MG SOD.; 7G FIBER. VEGAN
Nancy Ross Ryan is a cookbook author and food magazine editor based in Chicago. Her vocation is writing, her avocation cooking. |
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