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The lighter side of whole grains Basics & Recipes
By Nancy Ross Ryan |
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DO THE WORDS "heavy" and "brown" ring a bell? They will if you remember the baked goods of the 70s'. It was a decade when vegetarianism got its foothold in mainstream America, and health food stores, vegetarian restaurants and cookbooks took an all-or-nothing approach to ingredients, especially grains. If it wasn't 100 percent whole grain, it couldn't be 100 percent healthful. By and large, the biscuits, muffins, breads and pancakes of that era were irreproachably wholesome but dense, bordering on somber. A stack of 100 percent whole wheat pancakes was a serious breakfast. Even though vegetarianism is now a way of life for some 12 million (and counting) Americans, the cuisine is no less serious, but it is infinitely more epicurean. The following recipes for biscuits, muffins, pancakes, cornbread and yeasted breads offer the nutrition and flavor of whole grains along with the lightness provided by unbleached, all-natural white flour. In addition, the recipes use canola oil or olive oil rather than butter or margarine. When milk is used, it is reconstituted powdered non-fat milk, and may be replaced by reconstituted powdered soymilk. Regular liquid milk and soymilk can also be used, but I prefer the convenience of powdered milks as well as the lighter flavor and consistency. Keep a supply of both products in airtight containers or original packaging in a cool, dry place. Egg whites may be substituted for whole eggs. Don't limit yourself to the whole grains used in this feature -- whole wheat, white wheat, wheat bran, cornmeal, rye and buckwheat (which is not really a grain at all) also are good choices. You can even experiment with spelt, an ancient low-gluten wheat now being cultivated for the market; wheat germ, oats; and barley (see "Grain Gleanings," below). There are two ways to experiment with whole grains without jeopardizing results. Start by converting a recipe specifying all-white flour to one that contains one-third whole grain and two-thirds white. This is a tried-and-true ratio that yields satisfyingly light baked goods. As you learn to work with whole grains, increase the quantity of whole grain to half. But as you will see from some of the recipes that follow, you may have to make allowances in three ways: amount of liquid (whole grains absorb more); amount or type of leavening in quick breads (whole grains may require more); and length of time for kneading and rising in yeasted breads (whole grains take longer).
1. SOFT WHEAT: A lower protein wheat (6 percent to 10 percent) that yields flour with lower gluten. Most suitable for biscuits and cakes. Pastry and cake flours are made from low-gluten soft wheat. 2. BUCKWHEAT FLOUR: Buckwheat is not a grain, but the seed of a plant related to the rhubarb. it is ground into two dark and white varieties; the dark has more of the seed hulls in it. Both varieties are low in gluten, and must be mixed with white flour or a blend of white and whole wheat flours. 3. UNBLEACHED, ALL-PURPOSE WHITE FLOUR: A blend of hard and soft wheat flours without the bran and germ. Has less protein (hence less gluten) than white bread flour, but more than cake or pastry flour. It is bleached naturally by aging. 4. WHOLE WHEAT PASTRY FLOUR: Milled from soft wheat, this flour contains the whole grain, but has been ground to a finer texture and lighter consistency than unbleached white flour or whole wheat flours. 5. WHEAT BRAN: Also referred to as miller's bran. Purchase unprocessed, toasted wheat bran, which is the outer coating of the wheat kernel. It is high in fiber and low in calories. Add it to recipes as a fiber booster. 6. WHITE BREAD FLOUR: Milled from hard wheat, white bread flour has a high protein (hence gluten) content, and is especially suited to breads. Look for bread flour that is naturally white (unbleached) without chemicals, and not bromated. Bromated flour, used by some commercial bakers, is flour that has been treated with potassium bromate to speed up natural aging and toughen the dough for machine kneading. 7. CORNMEAL: Dried corn is processed as stone-ground or enriched degerminated. Stone-ground cornmeal is more nutritious, and contains the ground up hull and germ. It is softer in texture, richer in flavor and more perishable than commercially ground cornmeal, which is kiln-dried and ground between steel rollers that remove both hull and germ. Both are acceptable in baking. 8. RYE FLOUR: Milled from rye, one of the most ancient cereal grains, this is available stone-ground or commercially ground. Stone-ground is preferable because more nutrients are retained. Low in gluten, rye flour must be mixed with unbleached white flour or a blend of white and whole wheat flours. 9. GLUTEN FLOUR: A mixture of white flour and concentrated wheat gluten extracted from specially processed wheat flour; it can boost rising capacity. Gluten acts like a web that traps carbon dioxide gas caused by yeast fermentation. The gas bubbles cause the bread to rise. Unbleached white flour and whole wheat flour contain gluten. 10. HARD WHEAT: A higher protein variety (10 percent to 13 percent) that yields a flour high in gluten especially suitable for yeasted breads. Durum wheat, although high in gluten, is not good for bread because it produces a dense flour that does not rise well. It is used to produce semolina flour, the basis for high-quality pasta. 11. SPELT: An ancient form of wheat lower in gluten than regular wheat, it is now available at specialty stores. Good for individuals with gluten intolerance. 12. WHOLE WHEAT FLOUR: Made from ground wheat kernels. Purchase stone-ground whole wheat flour, which contains all the wheat germ and bran. 13. OATS: Some bread, muffin and scone recipes call for rolled oats. Oats are also low in gluten, and must be mixed with white flour or a blend of white and whole wheat flours. 14. WHITE WHEAT FLOUR: A new type of flour that contains the bran and germ of the wheat. White in color like all-purpose flour, but has flecks of germ and bran. It is milled from 100 percent hard wheat, and is a nutritionally attractive substitute for regular unbleached white or whole wheat flour. 15. WHEAT GERM: The embryo of the wheat kernel separated in milling, used especially as a source of vitamins. Makes a nutritious addition to bread and muffin recipes. Substitute 1 tablespoon wheat germ for 1 tablespoon flour per cup measure.
16. BARLEY FLOUR: Low-gluten flour milled from ground whole hulled barley and sieved to remove the outer hull. Mix it with unbleached white flour, or a mixture of white and whole wheat flours.--N.R.R. Whole wheat flour is unquestionably more nutritious than even unbleached all-natural white flour, so why use white flour at all? Because it is mild in flavor, because it is light in texture, because it supplies gluten in recipes using whole grain flours low in gluten such as rye and buckwheat, and because it keeps fresher longer than whole wheat. Whole wheat flour contains all the natural oils of the wheat kernel and is subject to oxidation, giving the flour a rancid flavor. While it's certainly possible to make breads from unadulterated whole grain flours, you will end up with dense, dark, chewy loaves that are heavier and less finely textured than their mixed-flour counterparts. It is best to store all flour in labeled plastic bags in the freezer. Flour picks up odors like a magnet, so fresh plastic bags should be used for each batch of flour. The same is true of yeast. Store it covered airtight in the freezer. One word about yeast: Except for the rapid-rise yeast specified in two recipes, if you're going to bake bread frequently, purchase commercial active dry baker's yeast in bulk. It costs about $2.40 per pound, whereas three 1/4-oz. packages cost approximately $1.20. (If you use commercial active dry baker's yeast purchased in bulk, 1 tablespoon is the rough equivalent of a 1/4-oz. package of store-bought active dry yeast.) Now that you're baking up a storm with whole grains, what should you do with your leftovers? Crumbled biscuits and muffins make great stuffings for squash, green peppers, eggplant and tomatoes. Yeast breads can be ground into bread crumbs in a food processor and stored in the freezer. Cube and oven-toast breads for croutons. Leftover pancake batter? Thin it with extra liquid and cook thin crepes, then stack, wrap and refrigerate or freeze. All you have to do is defrost, stuff with your choice of savory filling, roll and bake for a quick entree.
1 cup yellow cornmeal
PREHEAT OVEN to 425°F. In large bowl, combine cornmeal, flour, baking powder and salt; whisk to blend. Add milk or soymilk, beaten egg or egg whites, oil and honey. Mix lightly with fork or fold with rubber spatula to blend. Add chilies and cayenne if desired. Fold in with spatula.
Line bottom of lightly oiled 8-inch square baking pan with waxed paper square cut to fit. Lightly oil waxed paper. Scrape batter into pan. Bake until tester inserted in center comes out clean, 20 to 25 minutes. Run dinner knife or thin-blade spatula around edges to loosen. Turn out on board. Remove waxed paper. Turn right side up; cut into squares. Serve, if desired, with soup, vegetable stew or a bowl of chili beans. Good for breakfast, too. Makes 9 squares.
VARIATION: For basic cornbread, omit chilies and cayenne.
PER SERVING: 200 CAL.; 4G PROT.; 7G FAT; 31G CARB.; 24MG CHOL.; 329MG SOD.; 2G FIBER. OVO-LACTO
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1 cup sifted whole wheat or white wheat flour
PREHEAT OVEN to 400°F. Combine flours, baking powder and salt in sifter or wire-meshed sieve. Sift together into large bowl.
In separate small bowl, combine oil and milk or soymilk. Whisk to mix and pour into flour mixture. Stir with fork or fold with rubber spatula until just mixed and dough holds together (do not overmix).
Drop dough by heaping tablespoons at least 1 inch apart onto lightly oiled baking sheet. Bake until biscuits are golden brown on top, 10 to 12 minutes. Remove to napkin-lined basket. Serve hot. Makes 12 to 15 large biscuits.
HELPFUL HINT: TO measure flour accurately, sift more flour than you need onto a large sheet of waxed paper. Spoon lightly into a 1-cup measure that can be leveled with a flat-edged knife or spatula. Gather up opposite edges of waxed paper and pour excess flour back into bag.
PER SERVING: 130 CAL.; 3G PROT.; 6G FAT; 15G CARB.; 1MG CHOL.; 222MG SOD.; 1G FIBER. LACTO/VEGAN
1 cup sifted whole wheat flour or white wheat flour (see glossary)
PREHEAT OVEN to 400°F. Combine flours, baking powder and salt in sifter or wire-meshed sieve. Sift together into large bowl.
In smaller bowl, add milk or soymilk. Sprinkle yeast over surface. Whisk to mix and dissolve. Dip tablespoon into oil. Measure honey into tablespoon. Add to yeast milk mixture along with oil. Whisk to mix and dissolve honey.
Add to flour mixture. Stir with fork or fold with rubber spatula until just mixed and dough holds together (do not mix). Turn out onto lightly floured board. Roll out 1/2-inch thick. Cut biscuits straight down with 2-inch cutter. Gather up dough scraps, reroll and cut, handling dough as little and lightly as possible. Bake 1 inch apart on ungreased baking sheet until biscuits have risen and are golden brown on top, 10 to 12 minutes. Serve hot with orange marmalade if desired. Makes about 15 biscuits.
PER SERVING: 110 CAL.; 2G PROT.; 5G FAT; 14G CARB.; 1MG CHOL.; 247MG SOD.; 1G FIBER. LACTO/VEGAN (HONEY)
1/2 cup buckwheat flour, leveled but not sifted
IN SIFTER or wire-meshed sieve, combine buckwheat and white flours, baking powder, salt and brown sugar. Sift into bowl, pressing any lumps of brown sugar through sifter at end. In separate bowl, combine beaten egg or egg whites, oil and milk or soymilk. Add to flour mixture, stirring just to mix with fork or rubber spatula (do not overmix).
Lightly oil non-stick griddle or large non-stick skillet. Heat on medium-high until a drop of water sizzles. Drop approximately 1/4 cupfuls batter onto skillet, leaving ample room between pancakes. Cook on one side until bubbles appear on surface. Turn once; cook until second side is done. Stack by threes onto heated plates and serve with pure maple syrup. Makes 12 to 15-inch pancakes.
PER PANCAKE: 73 CAL.; 2G PROT.; 3G FAT; 10G CARB.; 14MG CHOL.; 188MG SOD.; 0.6G FIBER. OVO-LACTO
1/2 cup whole wheat flour
IN SIFTER or wire-mesh sieve, combine flours, baking powder and salt. Sift into medium bowl. In separate bowl, combine beaten egg or whites, and milk or soymilk. Measure in oil. In same spoon measure honey; add to milk mixture. Whisk to dissolve honey. Add to dry ingredients, mixing lightly with fork or folding with rubber spatula just to mix (do not overmix).
Drop by approximately 1/4 cupfuls onto preheated lightly oiled non-stick griddle or 12-inch frying pan. Cook until bubbles appear. Turn once; cook on other side. Stack by threes onto preheated plates and serve immediately. Makes about 12 to 15-inch pancakes.
PER SERVING: 83 CAL.; 3G PROT.; 3G FAT; 12G CARB.; 18MG CHOL.; 194MG SOD.; O.8G FIBER. OVO-LACTO
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, leveled but not sifted
IN LARGE BOWL, combine flours and salt; whisk to mix. In separate bowl, add warm water and sprinkle yeast over surface. Whisk to dissolve. Add honey; stir to dissolve. Add to flour mixture all at once.
With sturdy wooden or stainless steel spoon, stir and mix until dough comes together in a ball. Using lightly floured hands, knead bread in same bowl, turning and folding, 5 minutes. Cover with clean, wet tea towel that has been wrung almost dry. Let rise in warm (85°F) place 45 minutes.
Punch down, knead briefly. Turn out on lightly floured board. Shape into loaf. Place in non-stick loaf pan. Cover with damp towel. Let rise until doubled in bulk, about 45 minutes, or until depression made by pressing thumb gently into dough remains and does not spring back.
Preheat oven to 400°F. Slash top diagonally in three places about 1/4-inch deep with straight-edge razor blade or sharp knife. Bake 35 to 40 minutes; turn out on wire rack to cool. Makes 1 loaf.
PER SLICE: 107 CAL.; 3G PROT.; 0.4G FAT; 23G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 179MG SOD.; 2G FIBER. VEGAN (HONEY)
1-1/4 cups lukewarm water
PUT WATER in large bowl. Sprinkle yeast over surface. Let soften. Whisk to dissolve. Add half the flours and salt; stir to mix. Cover with clean damp tea towel. Let rise in warm (85°F) place until doubled in bulk, up to 1 hour.
Stir down. Add remaining flours, stirring with sturdy wooden or stainless steel spoon to incorporate. Turn out on board lightly floured with unbleached all-purpose flour. Knead 5 to 8 minutes until dough is smooth, elastic and not sticky.
Wash and dry mixing bowl; oil lightly. Return dough to bowl. Cover with damp towel. Let rise in warm place (85 degrees) until doubled in bulk, about 1 hour.
Punch down dough, turn out on board and shape into loaf. Place in lightly oiled loaf pan. Cover with damp towel. Let rise until doubled in size or until impression made with thumb does not spring back.
Preheat oven to 400°F. Make three diagonal slashes 1/4-inch deep on top with straight-edge razor blade or sharp knife. Bake 35 to 40 minutes. Turn out on wire rack to cool. Makes 1 loaf.
VARIATIONS: For heavy-duty mixer with dough attachment, add water and yeast to mixer bowl as directed. Use whisk or paddle attachment to mix up sponge. Let rise in mixer bowl covered with damp towel. Use dough hook to incorporate remaining flour. Knead in bowl with dough hook 5 to 8 minutes. Proceed . directed.
FOR FOOD PROCESSOR: Put all flours and salt in bowl of large-capacity (at least 7 cups) food processor fitted with dough blade or steel blade. Dissolve yeast in 1/4 cup of lukewarm water. Stir into 1 cup cold water in large measuring cup. (Add dissolved yeast to cold water because action of food processor heats up dough.)
With motor running, pour liquid into flours in food processor bowl and process until dough forms ball. Continue to process 1 minute. Remove dough from processor bowl carefully, scraping sides and blade. Follow recipe instructions starting with second rising.
PER SLICE: 123 CAL.: 4G PROT.; 1G FAT; 27G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 178MG SOD.; 1G FIBER. VEGAN
1 cup sifted whole wheat flour
PREHEAT OVEN to 425°F. In sifter or wire-meshed sieve, combine flours, baking powder and salt. Sift into large bowl.
In a smaller bowl, measure oil then, using same spoon, honey. Add egg or egg whites, and milk and soymilk. Whisk to dissolve honey. Add to dry ingredients, mixing lightly just to moisten.
Fill lightly oiled non-stick muffin tins 2/3 full. Bake until tops are golden brown and muffin is cooked through, about 20 minutes. Serve hot. Makes 12 big muffins.
VARIATIONS: Add 3/4 cup toasted finely chopped nuts and 1/2 cup plumped raisins to flour mixture, tossing to coat with rubber spatula. Proceed with recipe. To plump raisins on range, cover raisins with water and bring to boil over medium heat. Cover; remove from heat and let rest 30 minutes. In microwave, put raisins in 2 microwaveable container; cover with water. Cover with microwave-safe wrap. Microwave on full power for 4 minutes. Let rest, covered, for 5 minutes. Drain well before adding to batter.
PER SERVING: 132 CAL.; 3G PROT.; 4G FAT; 21G CARB.; 18MG CHOL.; 316MG SOD.; 1G FIBER. OVO-LACTO
1-1/3 cups lukewarm water
PUT WATER in large bowl. Sprinkle in yeast, let soften and whisk to dissolve. Add salt; stir. Add flours all at once. Stir to mix with sturdy wooden or stainless steel spoon until flour is incorporated and dough forms ball.
Turn out on lightly floured board and knead 5 to 8 minutes, or until dough is elastic and not sticky, but still soft.
Wash and dry bowl; oil lightly. Return dough to bowl. Cover with clean damp towel. Let rise in warm place (85°F) until doubled in bulk, about 1 hour.
Turn out dough on lightly floured board. For two pizzas, divide dough in half with knife or dough cutter. Roll into 14-inch circles. Ease into lightly oiled 14-inch round pizza pans that have each been sprinkled lightly with 2 teaspoons cornmeal. Or, roll out entire dough to fit 1 cookie sheet that has been lightly oiled and dusted with 4 teaspoons cornmeal.
Preheat oven to 400°F. Top pizza as desired with sauce and toppings. Bake about 15 minutes, or until dough is completely baked and toppings are cooked through. Makes 2 thin 14-inch round crusts, 10- x 15-inch rectangular crust, or the top and bottom crusts for a 12-inch stuffed pizza.
PER SERVING: 118 CAL.; 4G PROT.; 0.4G FAT; 25G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 179MG SOD.; 2G FIBER. VEGAN
1-1/4 cups lukewarm (110°F) water
PUT WATER in large bowl. Sprinkle yeast on surface. Let soften. Whisk to dissolve. Add salt, caraway seed and molasses or honey, stirring to mix. Add both flours and cocoa powder, stirring to mix with sturdy wooden or stainless steel spoon. Stir until all flour is incorporated
Turn out on lightly floured board. Knead 5 to 8 minutes, or until dough is elastic and not too sticky; rye flour tends to make a sticky dough. Clean and dry bowl; lightly oil. Return dough to bowl. Cover with clean damp towel and let rise in warm (85°F) place until doubled in bulk, at least 1 hour.
Punch down dough, turn out and knead briefly. Shape into loaf; place in lightly oiled non-stick loaf pan. Cover with clean damp towel. Let rise 45 minutes, until doubled in size, or until impression left in dough by thumb remains and does not spring back.
Preheat oven to 400°F. Make three diagonal slashes 1/4-inch deep in dough with straight-edge razor blade or sharp knife. Bake 40 minutes; cool on wire rack. Makes 1 loaf.
PER SLICE: 127 CAL.; 3G PROT.; 1G FAT; 28G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 180MG SOD.; 3G FIBER. VEGAN
1-1/2 cups sifted all-purpose unbleached flour
PREHEAT OVEN to 425°F. In sifter or wire-meshed sieve combine flour, bran, baking powder and salt. Sift into large bowl, adding any bran residue from sifter too coarse to pass through sieve.
In separate small bowl, combine beaten egg or whites, oil and honey measured in oil cup, and milk or soymilk. Whisk to dissolve honey. Add to flour mixture, stirring just to moisten.
Fill lightly oiled non-stick muffin tins 2/3 full. Bake until muffins are done in center and lightly brown on top, about 20 minutes. Serve hot. Makes about 12 big muffins.
VARIATIONS: Add 1/2 cup chopped pitted dates and 1/2 cup toasted chopped walnuts to flour mixture. Proceed as directed.
PER SERVING: 168 CAL.; 5G PROT.; 6G FAT; 25G CARB.; 18MG CHOL.; 235MG SOD.; 3G FIBER. OVO-LACTO |
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Powdered soymilk: Available at health food stores and health food sections of many supermarkets. Simply mix with water according to package directions. Yeast: This means baker's not brewer's yeast. Brewer's yeast is a food supplement; baker's yeast is a living, single-celled organism in a suspended state. When it comes in contact with food -- in this case flour and water -- it converts to alcohol and carbon dioxide gas. Carbon dioxide causes the bread to rise. Available in compressed (cake) and dry active forms. Dry active yeast is either quick-rise (rises in half the time of regular yeast), or regular active. Mix quick-rising yeast with 120°F water; regular active yeast with lukewarm 100-110°F water. NANCY ROSS RYAN is a cookbook author and food magazine editor based in Chicago. Her vocation is writing, avocation cooking, her recreation is eating and her hobby is dieting.
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Vegetarian Times Magazine