Milk by many other names:
a cook's guide to dairy and non-dairy "milks."
(Includes recipes and tips on cooking)
By Nancy Ross Ryan
Cow's Milk
Goat's Milk
Soy Milk
Rice Milk
Almond Milk
Oat Milk
Selected Recipes
Dainty Pasta
Perfect Mashed Potatoes
Dark Chocolate Pudding
Know the Ground Rules
"A Rose by any other name would smell just as sweet," Shakespeare pointed out. And although milk by any other name may taste as sweet to drink, its alternatives certainly do not smell, taste or perform the same in cooking. Dairy and non-dairy milks are not interchangeable in the kitchen. I found this out when -- from the milk of human kindness -- I began cooking special dishes at family parties for my beloved daughter-in-law Gigi, who is lactose-intolerant.
Poor Gigi! Before I learned my way around the various milk alternatives, she endured and ingested some peculiar dishes: mashed potatoes made with virgin olive oil and soy milk (faintly sweet and metallic, setting one's teeth on edge); a rice, green pea and cheese-alternative casserole made with rice milk. (Did someone put cheese in the rice pudding -- and leave out the-raisins?) And not to mention possibly the worst flavor mismatch, potato-chive soup made with almond milk (it can only be described as "dusty").
To learn about cooking with milk alternatives, I set about tasting and testing milks: cow's, goat's, soy, rice, almond and oat. What follows is a profile of the products with recommendations for use in cooking and some comments based on personal experience.
Some generalizations: Flavored milk and milk alternatives -- chocolate, carob, vanilla, etc. -- are great for drinking but not for cooking. For cooking, choose the unflavored versions. All the products profiled are unflavored. These are also good, well-chilled, on cereals, to make hot cocoa and in coffee and black tea. Instructions on non-dairy milks urge the user to shake well before using -- read that "Shake very, very well." The good news: There are enough milk alternatives on the market to prepare any recipe in a cook's repertoire.
Creamy, neutral flavor. Most versatile for cooking. High in calcium. Not recommended for lactose-intolerant people or those who are sensitive to alpha S1 casein, the major protein in cow's milk. Available forms: Powdered in whole and non-fat varieties; powdered buttermilk; canned evaporated whole and skim milk; aseptic pack, dated and shelf-stable. Fresh comes in whole, 2 percent fat, 1 percent fat and skim milk, mostly pasteurized. It is possible to find raw, unpasteurized milk at small local dairies. Some dairies offer both fresh and dried cow's milk that is free of bovine growth hormone (BGH) and/or antibiotics. Ingredients: Cow's milk Cooking pros: Heat stable. Adds rich mellow flavor to recipes and is the most versatile milk for cooking. Buttermilk is excellent in muffins and pancakes and in baked goods where the major leavener is baking soda. Cooking cons: Evaporated, aseptically packed, shelf-stable and some brands of powdered milk have a slightly caramelized flavor. These are less desirable for use in the most delicate desserts, such as vanilla custard, rice pudding, banana cream pie, etc. Ideal for: All forms of cooking, savory and sweet. Comments: Some vegetarians avoid cow's milk because the animals are exploited as "milk machines," and their male offspring supply the veal market. For those who want to include dairy in their diets, I recommend they seek out fresh and powdered organic, non-fat milk. Although it costs more than other versions, the differences are worth it.
Creamy rich flavor. Useful for individuals who consume dairy but are sensitive to the alpha S1 casein in cow's milk. Goat milk contains only traces of this protein. More easily digested than cow's milk because fat globules do not "cluster." High in calcium. Available forms: Powdered; canned evaporated; aseptic pack, dated, shelfstable. Fresh in whole and I percent fat, pasteurized. Ingredients: Goat's milk. Cooking pros: Creamy rich flavor enhances savory and sweet dishes. Heat stable. Very versatile. Cooking cons: As with cow's milk, goat's milk in evaporated and aseptic packaging is best reserved for desserts with strong flavors such as spice cake. While fresh goat's milk is quite mild, the aseptic and evaporated varieties can have a pronounced, tangy flavor that is noticeable in delicate desserts such as rice pudding, banana cream pie, vanilla pudding and the like. Ideal for All recipes, savory and sweet. Comments: Fresh, 1 percent goat's milk has a creamy flavor that belies its low-fat content. Similar animal exploitation issues as cow's milk.
Nutty, faintly sweet flavor. Useful for individuals who are lactose-intolerant. Available forms: Powdered; aseptic, dated, shelf-stable, in full-fat, low-fat and non-fat styles. Also, aseptic quarts m concentrate (add equal volume water). Many brands are enriched with added calcium and vitamins A and D. Common Ingredients: Filtered water, organic soy beans, brown rice syrup and sea salt. May also contain soy protein, malted barley, carageenan (sea vegetable), kombu (sea vegetable), canola oil, sunflower oil and Job's Tears (a cereal grain related to millet). Cooking cons: Heat stable. Good replacement for dairy milk in many dishes. Cooking cons: Pronounced flavor not suitable for white sauces, mashed potatoes, cream soups and delicate desserts. Ideal for: Breads, cornbread, muffins, whole grain pancake and waffle batter, cereal, curries, high-flavor "cheese" sauces, baked goods with strong flavors (spice cakes, bar cookies, pumpkin tea bread, etc.). Comments: Because it is so convenient, powdered soy milk has become one of my pantry staples.
Refreshing sweet flavor. Useful for individuals who are lactose-intolerant and some brands are also gluten-free. (Check with manufacturer to see if the brown rice syrup has been converted with barley, a grain that also contains gluten, or a gluten-free natural enzyme.) Available forms: Aseptic 1-quart liquid shelf-stable packs in low-fat and non-fat varieties. Common ingredients: Filtered water, brown rice syrup, rice starch or brown rice (may be organic) and sea salt. May also contain safflower or canola oil, pea protein, carageenan, guar gum (stabilizer, thickener from legume seeds) and than gum (stabilizer and thickener from fermented corn sugar). Cooking pros: Heat stable. Good replacement for dairy milk in many dishes. Cooking cons: Overtones of sweetness not suitable for savory cream sauces and soups, mashed potatoes, quiches or savory casseroles. Ideal for: Pancake and waffle batters, breads, muffins, cookies and other baked goods. Comments: I especially like rice milk in pancakes and sweet desserts.
Like rice milk but with a delicate almond flavor all its own. Useful for individuals who are lactose-intolerant. Available forms: Aseptic 1 -quart liquid shelf-stable packs in low-fat variety. Common ingredients: Similar to rice milk with added almond flavor. Cooking pros: Similar to rice milk; however, almond flavor is a plus in desserts. Cooking cons: Similar to rice milk. The nutty flavor that is so pleasant in sweet dishes tastes "off" or even dusty in some savory foods. Ideal for: Sweet desserts, fruit shakes and breakfast smoothies. Comments: Almond milk is perfect for sweet puddings and dessert sauces.
Pleasant neutral flavor without overtones of sweetness. Useful for people who are lactose-intolerant. Imported from Sweden, oat milk is available at some health food stores and worth seeking out because of its versatility. Available forms: Aseptic, 1 -liter ( 1.06 quart) shelf-stable pack. Common ingredients: Spring water, organic oats and canola oil. Common pros: Heat stable. Good replacement for dairy milk in most recipes including mashed potatoes. Cooking cons: No low-fat variety available. Comments: For me, oat milk was a discovery. I find it a good substitute for dairy milk.
These three recipes showcase goat's, oat and almond milks, giving you a sense of the sweet and savory possibilities.
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This dish is surprisingly robust.
3/4 cup tiny pasta such as orzo, conchigliette (tiny shells) or fiochetti (little bows)
1 Tbs. olive oil
1/2 cup chopped onion
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 cup oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, rinsed, finely chopped
1/3 cup fresh basil
1/3 cup grated Romano cheese
1/4 cup pine nuts, lightly toasted
10 drops red pepper sauce
1 cup fresh goat's milk
1/4 cup crumbled goat cheese (optional)
Cook pasta in salted water to al dente stage. Drain but do not rinse. Set aside.
In large skillet, heat oil and sauté onion over medium heat until translucent. Add garlic, sun-dried tomatoes, basil, Romano cheese, pine nuts, red pepper sauce and goat's milk. Simmer until slightly reduced, about 5 minutes. Stir in cooked pasta and heat through. Serve topped with crumbled goat cheese if desired. Serves 4.
PER SERVING: 304 CAL.; 13G PROT.; 14G TOTAL FAT (5G SAT. FAT); 34G CARB.; 15MG CHOL.; 286MG SOD.; 3G FIBER.
LACTO
There are several secrets to perfect mashed potatoes. The first is to use only enough water to cover and to salt the water so no additional salt is needed. The second is to heat the liquids. The third, and most important thing, is to use a potato masher or ricer before whipping.
2 lbs. (about 6 medium) russet potatoes
1 quart water
1 tsp. salt
1 cup oat milk
1 Tbs. canola or extra virgin olive oil
1/2 tsp. white pepper, preferably freshly ground
Salt to taste
Peel potatoes, removing all eyes and blemishes. Halve potatoes lengthwise. Cut each half into eight similar-size pieces. Place potatoes in 3-1/2- to 4-quart pan. Cover with 1 quart water. Add 1 teaspoon salt. Cover pan. Over high heat bring water to boil, about 10 minutes. Reduce heat to medium. Cook covered until potatoes are fork tender, about 10 to 12 minutes.
Meanwhile in a small saucepan over low heat, bring oat milk to simmer. Do not boil.
Drain cooked potatoes. Return to pan and mash very well with old-fashioned potato masher.
Scrape potatoes with spatula into mixer bowl or separate bowl. With whip attachment on medium speed or with hand mixer, begin to whip potatoes while slowly adding hot oat milk. Scrape bowl to incorporate all potatoes. Add oil and pepper. Whip to mix. Taste for salt, adding more if necessary.
Serve immediately or keep warm for up to 1 hour by putting bowl, covered, in hot water bath. Makes 6 to 8 servings.
PER SERVING: 164 CAL.; 3G PROT.; 3G TOTAL FAT (0.2G SAT. FAT); 33G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 410MG SOD.; 3G FIBER.
VEGAN
Almond milk adds a pleasant, nutty flavor to this rich and creamy dessert.
1/2 cup sugar
1/3 cup cocoa
2 Tbs. cornstarch
Pinch salt
2 cups almond milk
1 tsp. vanilla
In non-reactive 2-quart saucepan, combine sugar, cocoa, cornstarch and salt, together using a whisk. Slowly add almond milk and vanilla, stirring to blend completely. Continue simmer over medium heat, stirring constantly. Lower heat and stir with wooden or non-stick spoon for an additional 3 to 5 minutes. Portion into 4 individual dessert dishes or one dessert bowl. Press plastic wrap onto surface to prevent "skin" from forming. Chill before serving. Makes 4 servings.
Note: This pudding is best eaten the day it is made.
PER SERVING: 179 CAL.; 2G PROT.; 2G TOTAL FAT (0.4G SAT. FAT); 39G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 127MG SOD.; 2G FIBER.
VEGAN
Know the Ground Rules
When Cooking with milk alternatives, a little care ensures good and tasty results. Here are three simple safeguards:
Boil a sample to see how it's affected by heat. For example, soy milk won't break down when heated, but it forms a "skin" very quickly. Some other heat-stable milk alternatives curdle when lemon or vinegar is added.
Taste the milk or milk alternative both chilled and heated to detect flavor overtones -- such as sweetness -- that would make it unsuitable for a particular recipe.
Always check the expiration date on milk or milk alternatives. Even a shelf stable, aseptically packed variety won't stay fresh for much longer than a week once it's open. | |