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The Taming of the 'Shroom Once-exotic wild mushrooms become cultivated everyday fare.
By Nancy Ross Ryan - Sept. 1999
Once upon a time (from about the 1920s to the 1980s) mushrooms in America meant one thing: white button mushrooms, either fresh or canned. Then, somewhere in the 1980s, a big -- really big -- brown mushroom made news on restaurant menus: the portobello. The saucer-size, savory, satisfying portobello, often served grilled, was an instant sensation and created a taste for more. (Mushroom consumption in America has grown by about 200 percent since 1974, according to the United States Department of Agriculture.) And there certainly were more mushrooms in the world, but many were foreign to our taste or else exotic, hard-to-find wild mushrooms. It was the chefs of America who popularized cooking with exotic mushrooms. And as the names morel, chanterelle, oyster, enoki, shiitake, porcini or cepe, turned up on restaurant menus, these exotic often expensive fresh mushrooms began to turn up in gourmet food shops.
Wild mushrooms usually have two seasons -- spring and fall. But cultivated mushrooms, such as the white button mushroom, are available year round, thanks to the French. The white button mushroom, also called Champignon de Paris, was first cultivated by the French in 1700. Prior to that there were no cultivated mushrooms. Mushrooms are difficult to grow, and cultivation methods were a closely guarded secret. It was not until the late eighteenth century that mushroom cultivation began in earnest in Sweden and England, and not until 1900 in America. Today, America is one of the world's largest growers of cultivated mushrooms. So, it should come as no surprise that instead of just white and brown button mushrooms, and portobellos, American mushroom farmers are beginning to cultivate more exotic varieties. (The portobello is actually a giant cremini, and a cremini -- the ordinary brown button mushroom -- is a close relative of the white button mushroom.) Today morels, enoki, oyster, beech, blewit, shiitake, wood ears, lobster mushrooms and more are being cultivated for market. And experimentation continues in how to cultivate such elusive wild mushrooms as chanterelles and the king of all fungi, the truffle.
But most important, at any given time of year these days, a wide variety of exotic mushrooms is available in the produce sections of many supermarkets, especially markets specializing in gourmet and natural foods. They range in price from $4 to $20 per pound for cultivated exotic mushrooms, with some wild varieties costing up to $40 per pound, depending on the season. The more affordable exotic mushrooms provide the basis for a fabulous array of appetizers, salads, soups and main dishes, as the recipes below show. And let's not turn our backs on the ordinary and economical white and brown button mushrooms, both of which offer firm texture, wonderful flavor and can be combined with with all exotic mushrooms. Just substitute white or brown button mushrooms for part of the exotic mushrooms in any recipe. Most of our recipes come from chefs, but have been adapted for the home kitchen. And just a few -- as little as one-quarter of a pound -- of the more expensive exotic mushrooms make incomparable garnishes.
Some quick fixes with mushrooms simply sautéed in olive oil include adding them to fresh salads, soups, sauces and stir-frys, and egg dishes such as scrambled eggs, omelets and frittatas. Scatter sautéed mushrooms on pasta dishes, over rice, baked potatoes and vegetables such as peas, green beans, asparagus and broccoli. Chop sautéed mushrooms and spread on garlic toast for instant crostini or bruschetta. Use to top a wide variety of sandwich fillings -- from grilled vegetables and grilled cheese, to egg or tofu salads to vegetable burgers -- before putting on the top bread slice or bun.
It's important to know the few guidelines for purchasing, storing and handling all exotic mushrooms, and it's helpful to have a quick reference to the names and characteristics of some of the varieties you are likely to meet in the produce section.
Mushroom TLC |
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Mushroom Primer Following are some of the mushrooms, many cultivated and some wild, that can be found in produce sections today. When in doubt, ask for the Latin name for identification.
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6 servings Ovo-Lacto 2 pounds cooked polenta (recipe follows) 1 ounce butter 4 ounces grated Fontina cheese, loosely packed 4 ounces cubed Gorgonzola cheese Extra virgin olive oil as needed 2-1/2 cups mixed exotic mushrooms, cleaned and coarsely chopped 2 tsp. chopped garlic 2 ounces white wine Salt and freshly ground pepper, as needed Spray with vegetable oil spray 6 one-cup mini-loaf pans (or whatever shape mold you prefer). Cool cooked polenta slightly, folding it over occasionally to speed cooling, about 15 minutes. Put the warm polenta into a bowl and fold in the cheese with a few strokes. Then add butter and fold again. Do not overwork the polenta. Quickly divide the batter evenly into the mini-loaf pans. Refrigerate, covered, until firm, about an hour. When cool, carefully loosen the polenta cakes and remove from the pan. Place them on a lightly sprayed or buttered pan and bake them at 400°F for about 30 minutes. Meanwhile, sauté the mushrooms in olive oil, seasoning with salt and pepper. When almost cooked, add the garlic and sauté an additional minute or two. When the mushrooms are done, but still firm, add white wine and reduce juices. Lower the heat and sauté for about 2 additional minutes.
Place the polenta on individual heated plates and evenly divide and scatter the mushrooms around. Drizzle any pan juices on.
Makes 8 cups Dairy Free 1 cup regular polenta (not fine grind) 1-1/2 tsp. salt, or to taste
Bring water to boil in the bottom of a double boiler pan. Bring 2 cups of water to boil in the top portion of the double boiler pan over direct heat and add salt. Drizzle in the polenta, stirring well with a whisk for about three minutes. When the polenta is suspended in the boiling water, place the top part of the double boiler into the bottom part of the double boiler and lower the heat so the water and the polenta simmer. Cover the top part of the double boiler and simmer for about 1-1/2 hours, stirring once or twice.
Makes 8 cups Dairy Free
1 28-oz. can tomato purée Put 1 Tbs. of the olive oil in a heavy, non-reactive 3-quart pan over medium-high heat. Add 1 cup of chopped onion and sauté, stirring, until onion is translucent and lightly brown, about 3 minutes. Add one-half of the minced garlic and sauté, stirring constantly, until translucent but not brown, about 1 to 2 minutes. Add tomato purée and water, 1/2 tsp. of the salt and 1/2 tsp. of the pepper. Raise heat and bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Reduce heat to low and simmer for 30 minutes. While sauce is simmering, heat 1 Tbs. of the olive oil in a 6-qt. heavy, non-reactive saucepan over high heat. Add the remaining cup of chopped onion and sauté until golden. Add the remaining minced garlic and sauté until translucent but not brown. Add sliced mushrooms and, stirring frequently, sauté until completely cooked, adding the remaining tablespoon of olive oil midway through cooking. Mushrooms are cooked when they have changed color and released some of their juices, about 6 to 7 minutes.
Add tomato sauce to sautéed mushroom mixture. Stir to combine. Cook for 10 to 20 more minutes to blend flavors. At the end of cooking, stir in basil. Correct seasoning with additional salt to taste. May be refrigerated, covered, for up to four days. May be frozen.
Suggestions:
Makes 5 cups Ovo-Lacto 1/2 cup unbleached flour 1 qt. low-fat milk 1 tsp. salt, divided 1 shallot, peeled, stuck with 3 cloves 1 small bay leaf 1 pinch freshly grated nutmeg 1 cup thinly sliced shallots 1 Tbs. canola oil 1 lb. mixed shiitake, chanterelle and enoki mushrooms, cleaned, trimmed, sliced In a heavy, 3-quart pan, brown flour over medium heat by whisking constantly until flour turns a uniform light tan (the color of an almond in its shell), about 5 to 8 minutes. Immediately remove pan from heat and continue to stir until flour cools slightly, about 2 to 3 minutes. Set aside. While flour is cooling, in a large frying pan, over high heat, add canola oil. When oil is hot, add the chopped shallots. Sauté until golden brown. Add mushrooms and salt. sauté over high heat, stirring, until mushrooms are cooked and have begun to release their juices. Set aside.
Measure 3/4 cup of the milk and add slowly to the cooled browned flour in the saucepan, stirring constantly to create a smooth paste, scraping sides and bottom of pan with rubber spatula. Slowly pour remaining milk into pan, whisking constantly to create lump-free mixture. Add 1/2 tsp. of the salt, the shallot stuck with cloves, bay leaf, and nutmeg. Bring to boil over medium-high heat, whisking constantly until thickened. Reduce heat and simmer for 20 minutes. Remove shallot and bay leaf and discard. Add mushrooms to cream sauce in pan. Stir to combine. Cook briefly to heat through.
Suggestions:
Serves 6 Dairy Free 2 Tbs. olive oil 1 lb. mixed exotic mushrooms, cleaned, trimmed and chopped 3 cloves garlic, chopped 1 cup chopped onion 2 Tbs. fresh thyme, chopped, or 4 tsp. dried 6 cups prepared vegetable broth Salt and white pepper to taste 1 cup cooked wild rice 1 Tbs. Sherry (optional) In a soup pot, sauté the mushrooms, onions, garlic and thyme in the olive oil until the onions are tender. Add the broth, cover, bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 20 minutes. Pour half the soup into a blender and blend until finely chopped. Return to the pot and add salt and pepper and the wild rice. Cover and let simmer another 10 minutes. Taste for seasoning. Just before serving, add Sherry if desired.
Soba Noodles with Pan-Roasted Vegetables and Miso Mushroom Broth This is a one-bowl main dish adaptation for the home kitchen of the satisfying, savory vegan dish created and served by Chef Susie Crofton in her namesake Chicago restaurant, Crofton on Wells.
1/2 cup miso (white, yellow or red) In large 6-quart saucepan, dissolve miso in water with whisk. Add garlic paste and mushrooms. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, simmer, covered until mushrooms are cooked, 5 to 6 minutes. Uncover, bring to a boil, add soba noodles, stirring to separate. Cover, reduce heat, and cook until noodles are done, about 5 minutes. Do not overcook. Turn off heat; do not remove cover. While noodles are cooking, in large skillet, quickly cook garlic clove in olive oil, turning, until browned. Remove garlic and discard. Over high heat, pan-roast mixed vegetables until caramelized, stirring constantly, about 8 minutes.
To serve:Divide noodles, mushrooms and broth between 8 large heated shallow bowls. Divide and distribute vegetables on top of each bowl.
Serves 4 Ovo-Lacto
5 Tbs. butter, divided Place 3 tablespoons of the butter and 1/4 cup olive oil in a heavy saucepan over medium heat. sauté the asparagus for 3 to 4 minutes, and remove the asparagus to a plate and reserve. Add mushrooms to the skillet, sauté briefly, remove to a plate and reserve. Add the onions to the skillet, sauté for 3 to 4 minutes, then add the garlic and the rice. sauté for 3 more minutes, adding a little more olive oil as needed. Add the wine and 2 cups of the stock. Reduce heat to low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is nearly gone. Add the rest of the stock, a little at a time, until the rice is tender-firm, stirring occasionally. (This should take about 20 minutes from the first addition of stock.) Add the wild rice, asparagus and mushrooms and all the juices left on the plates. Add a little more liquid (stock or water) if necessary to reheat. Stir well and let simmer for 4 to 5 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste. Add more liquid, 1/4 cup at a time, to achieve proper creamy consistency. Add both cheeses, the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter, pesto and cream. Stir well to mix. Check seasoning. Divide among 4 bowls, serve with extra Parmesan and black pepper for passing.
Serves 4 Dairy Free
1 cup unbleached flour In a mixing bowl combine flour, polenta, sesame seed, salt, thyme and pepper. Place soy milk in a separate shallow bowl. Preheat a large sauté pan with up to 1/2-inch of oil over medium high heat. Dredge the oyster mushrooms first in the flour mixture, next in soy milk and again in the flour mixture. Fry the mushrooms until the crust is golden brown. Drain on paper towels. To serve:Divide the spinach among 4 plates. Top spinach on each plate with 3 mushrooms. Drizzle 2 to 3 tablespoons of the dipping sauce around the plate. Garnish each with a lime wedge.
Makes about 1 cup Dairy Free 1 Tbs. grated fresh ginger 1 clove garlic, minced 1/4 tsp. chili flakes or to taste 1 tsp. Chinese fermented black beans 2 Tbs. succanat or sugar 1/4 cup tamari juice of 3 limes 1 Tbs. ketchup or tomato paste 1/4 cup water Combine all ingredients except 1 tsp. sesame seeds in a blender and blend until smooth. Add remaining sesame seeds. Serve or store, refrigerated, covered, up to one week.
Serves 4 Dairy Free
1 Tbs. raspberry vinegar In a small bowl, combine raspberry vinegar, chopped dried apricots, 4 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil, salt and pepper, whisking to mix. Set aside to let flavors blend. In a medium skillet heat olive oil and sauté shallots for a minute or two. Add the thyme. Add the mushrooms and sauté for 4 to 5 minutes until tender, adding white wine as needed to keep shallots from scorching. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Toss the greens with the reserved vinaigrette. Portion onto four individual plates. Divide warm mushrooms evenly and place on greens. Serve immediately.
Serves 6 to 8 Dairy Free
1 pound instant (quick-cooking) couscous In a 3-1/2 qt. non-reactive bowl, place couscous and salt. Pour in the boiling water, stirring to combine. Cover tightly and let steam. Meanwhile, in large skillet heat 1 to 2 Tbs. olive oil over high heat. Add mushrooms and sauté until mushrooms are cooked and have begun to release their juices. Add mushrooms to couscous in bowl, using fork to fluff and separate grains. Set aside, uncovered. Let cool to room temperature.
Meanwhile, seed and chop tomato. Peel and chop cucumber. Peel and chop onion. Stem, seed and chop red bell pepper. Chop parsley. Add chopped vegetables to couscous-mushroom mixture. Add the 3 Tbs. olive oil, lemon juice, pepper and salt to taste. Stir to mix. Cover and refrigerate. Serve cold on individual plates. |
Vegetarian Times Magazine