Cover story By Nancy Ross Ryan
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Cover story By Nancy Ross Ryan |
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It's no secret that pizza pizza is one of America's favorite foods, an Italian invention that we have creatively made our own, much to the distress of some pizzaiolos (pizza makers) in Italy. Why, just last summer the Naples Pizza Association sent three ambassadors to the United States to educate Americans about "true" pizza, and to protest our departure from proper pizza-making traditions. But they didn't put a damper on our enthusiasm for pies of every conceivable variety. Although pizza eaten at home represents 80 percent of all pizzas consumed, most of that is restaurant pizza (delivered or carryout) and frozen pizza from the supermarket, according to Harry Balzer, vice president of The NPD Group, a consumer market research company in Rosemont, Ill. Only 10 percent of households make their pies from scratch. What's more, "from-scratch" can mean refrigerated or frozen prepared dough, packaged mixes or pre-baked crusts. These options may be speedy, but they're not always the best nutritional choice or the most economical. In the recipes that follow, convenience and speed do not depend on prepared crusts. Anyone can make a fresh, wholesome and hearty pizza for eight with from-scratch dough and fresh vegetables in 45 minutes flat. Convenience products such as fast-rising yeast, prepared pizza sauce, pre-shredded cheese, diced canned tomatoes and pre-washed, ready-to-eat vegetables trim at least an hour from standard preparation time. Another technique that trims time from any recipe is used by every professional chef in America. It's called mise en place -- French for having all the ingredients and equipment that you're going to use lined up, literally "put in place," before you begin. (The alternative is chercher les choses -- that's more or less French for running around the kitchen frantically finding everything you need ingredient by ingredient.) Carefully chosen products can trim not only time but also fat. For starters, die Fast Pizza Dough uses no oil. Wheat germ provides texture, flavor, fiber and only 1 gram of fat per tablespoonful, whereas 1 tablespoon of oil contains 14 grams of fat. If you wish, you can prepare the pizza crusts using a mixture of half unbleached white flour and half whole wheat flour, but the crust will not be as light. Very little fat is used for cooking the vegetables for the toppings, and the pregrated low-moisture, part-skim mozzarella cheese is lower in fat than its full-fat counterpart, as is mozzarella-style soy cheese. And here's a reason to read labels: Some brands of canned pizza sauce contain only .5 grams of fat per 1/4-cup serving, but most contain double that much, and some as much as 3 grams of fat per 1/4-cup serving. Speaking of fat, one medium slice of a new popular stuffed pizza introduced this year at a pizza restaurant chain contains 20 grams of fat -- ouch! If you've been wondering about the freshness and vitamin content of those ready-to-eat supermarket vegetables in the bag, the news is good. According to a recent issue of The Tufts University Diet & Nutrition Newsletter, University of Kentucky researchers found the vegetables keep fresh longer and lose less vitamin C and beta carotene than unwrapped vegetables because die kind of plastic wrap used regulates the amount of water, oxygen and carbon dioxide inside the bag. Ready-to-eat vegetables make for waste-free preparation too. And all the recipes that follow employ that philosophy. Mushroom stems are used, along with mushroom caps; juices from canned tomatoes and chilies are reduced and used for sauce; even the skin of the eggplant is used. Doesn't that sound virtuous? Don't be fooled. The main reason to make pizza at home is pure pleasure: It smells, looks and tastes absolutely wonderful. The varieties are virtually endless. Start with the pizza recipes and their variations below, then develop your own vegetable combinations. Some suggestions: Try topping basic tomato-sauce pizza with two cups of coarsely grated potatoes sauteed with three cloves of minced garlic. Substitute cauliflower florets for half the broccoli in the Broccoli Pizza. Or substitute jalapeño jack or jalapeño-style soy cheese for mozzarella in the Black Bean Chili Pizza. Go ahead and give the Naples Pizza Association a few more examples of American pizza to fret about.
Selected Recipes Fast-rising yeast and one-bowl mixing and kneading has this dough ready to roll, top and bake in 20 minutes. Hot water -- 120 to 130°F -- gives fast-rising yeast its get up and go. The water will feel hot to the touch. Until you've memorized the feel, use a thermometer. Do not knead dough for pizza after first rising; it will be harder to roll out. 1-1/4 cups hot (120 to 130°F) water 1/4-oz. packet rapid-rising active dry yeast 1 tsp. salt 3 Tbs. toasted wheat germ (see glossary, p. 118) 3 cups all-purpose unbleached white flour, leveled but not sifted, plus additional flour for kneading Preheat oven to 500°F. Pour water into medium bowl; sprinkle in yeast. Stir with wire whisk to dissolve quickly. Add salt and wheat germ; whisk again. Add 3 cups flour. With sturdy wooden or stainless-steel spoon, stir until dough, forms mass and leaves sides of bowl. Knead dough briefly in bowl, sprinkling in extra flour until dough is smooth and not sticky but still soft, about 3 minutes. Set bowl in pie pan. Pour 2 cups hot water into pie pan. Cover bowl with lightly oiled waxed paper, oiled side down, or damp kitchen towel. Let rise 15 minutes. Turn out with spatula onto floured board (do not knead). Roll out into desired shape. Makes 14-inch round (8 wedges) or 10-1/2 x 15-1/2-inch rectangular thick-crust pizza; 2 14-inch round thin-crust pizzas; I round "bowl" bread loaf, 32 bread sticks; or 11-1/2 x 17-inch focaccia. Helpful hint: To measure flour without wasting any, place measuring cup on waxed paper square. Scoop flour in, letting flour fall on paper. Level off with straight-edge spatula or back of knife. Use flour on waxed paper for kneading dough and dusting on surface to roll out dough. Any unused flour can be gathered up in waxed paper and poured back into flour container. PER 1/2 RECIPE: 162 CAL.; 6G PROT.; 0.7G TOTAL FAT (0.1G SAT. FAT); 33G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 267MG SOD.; 2G FIBER. VEGAN There's no such thing as an imperfect breadstick. If one stick is too long for the pan, simply bend one end over to fit, like a shepherd's crook. 1 recipe Fast Pizza Dough, mixed, kneaded and risen Preheat oven to 500°F. Turn out risen dough onto lightly floured surface. Roll out into a rectangle roughly 12 inches x 16 inches, dusting top with flour lightly as needed to prevent sticking. With knife, score dough in half with cut parallel to 12-inch side. Score each half in half again in the same direction. Score each quarter in half again in the same direction. Score each eighth in half again in the same direction (you should have 16 strips about 1 inch wide and 12 inches long). Cut through each strip with a serrated knife. Lift strips individually; cut in half crosswise. Quickly twist and pull half strips to form a twisted rope about 10 inches long. Repeat until all strips are cut and twisted. Lay strips side by side vertically in 3 11-1/2 x 17-inch lightly oiled baking pans. Bake until breadsticks are golden brown, about 15 minutes. Cool on rack. Makes 32 10-inch breadsticks. Helpful hints: Electric ovens tend to cook faster; these recipes were tested in a gas oven. You may need to lower the heat of an electric oven to 450°F.
PER BREADSTICK: 40 CAL.; 1G PROT.; 0. 2G TOTAL FAT (0 SAT. FAT); 8G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 67MG SOD.; 0.4G FIBER. VEGAN
Focaccia is the ancient ancestor of today's pizza. It is meant to be eaten as a bread or a snack, and for that reason it is not heavily garnished.
1 recipe Fast Pizza Dough, mixed and kneaded but not risen Preheat oven to 450°F. On lightly floured surface, roll out dough into rectangle measuring roughly 11 inches x 17 inches. Lightly dust top with flour during rolling to prevent sticking. Ease dough into lightly oiled 11-1/2 x 17-inch baking pan, stretching to fit. Cover with lightly oiled waxed paper, oiled side down. Let rise in warm place 25 minutes. Top dough with pizza sauce, spreading to cover 1/4 inch from edges. Press down with index finger to indent or "dimple" dough over entire surface. Bake until dough is cooked through and lightly browned on bottom, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from oven. Cool on wire rack 10 minutes. Slice into large squares with serrated knife. Makes 12 pieces. Variations: For added flavor, sprinkle rosemary and red pepper flakes over tomato sauce.
Helpful hint: With any leftover focaccia, make panzanella (bread salad). Soak bread in water and squeeze dry, then combine with fresh basil or salad greens, red wine vinegar, olive oil and fresh chopped tomatoes. Or tear bread into small 1-inch pieces and add to tossed green salad. Either increase die dressing by 1 or 2 tablespoons or add 1 to 2 tablespoons vegetable broth, tomato juice, rice vinegar or water. Toss salad well and let sit a few minutes for bread to absorb juices. PER SQUARE: 111 CAL.; 4G PROT.; 1G TOTAL FAT (0.1g SAT. FAT); 23G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 239MG SOD.; 1G FIBER. VEGAN Because the eggplant is neither peeled nor salted, it's essential to choose a good one. Look for finn texture, no soft spots, bright unblemished skin and no brown spots. The ideal weight is about 3/4 pound for the amount of pizza crust.
1 recipe Fast Pizza Dough, mixed and kneaded Preheat oven to 500°F. While dough is rising, slice green top off eggplant; discard. Cut eggplant in half vertically. Halve each half again. Lay eggplant quarters together to form halves flat on cutting board. Slice horizontally in 1/2-inch pieces. Toss eggplant in lightly oiled large non-stick skillet over medium-high heat. Cover and cook, stirring 1 or 2 times, until eggplant pieces become slightly caramelized and tender, about 10 minutes. Add garlic; cover and cook 2 more minutes. Add spinach, cover and steam 5 minutes, stirring 1 or 2 times. Remove from heat; uncover. After dough has risen 15 minutes, turn out with spatula onto lightly floured surface. Roll out into 14-inch circle, dusting top lightly with flour as needed to prevent sticking. Brush excess flour from dough; fold dough in half, then in half again. Place on lightly oiled 14-inch pizza pan. Unfold dough, ease to fit. Create thin rim by pressing dough down with thumb 1/4 inch from edge. Spread dough with pizza sauce. Top with eggplant mixture. Bake 12 minutes. Remove from oven. Top with mozzarella cheese and return to oven immediately. Bake until cheese is bubbly and dough is golden brown and cooked through, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove from oven. Transfer to pizza peel or board. Wait 5 minutes before cutting into wedges with pizza cutter or sharp serrated knife. If desired, serve with crushed red pepper flakes and grated Parmesan or Parmesan-style soy cheese. Makes 8 large wedges. Variation: Instead of pizza sauce, substitute 1/4 cup Low-fat Pesto (see recipe on below). PER WEDGE: 270 CAL.; 15G PROT.; 6G TOTAL FAT (3G SAT. FAT); 40G CARB.; 15SMG CHOL.; 630MG SOD.; 4G FIBER. LACTO/VEGAN This bread can be mixed, kneaded and baked (wash and dry bowl in between) in the same stainless steel bowl. (Glass or ceramic bowls may not stand up to 500°F heat.) if it's baked in a straight-sided bowl, the end shape is easier to slice, but any 1-quart stainless steel bowl will do. 1 recipe Fast Pizza Dough, mixed and kneaded but not risen Preheat oven to 500°F. Lightly oil a 1-quart stainless steel (preferably straight-sided) bowl with vegetable oil spray. On lightly floured surface, shape dough into round loaf. Place in bowl. Snip 8 1- to 1-1/2-inch slits with sharp kitchen scissors in dough about 1/2 inch from edge of bowl and pointing toward center. Let rise 30 minutes in bowl covered with damp kitchen towel or lightly oiled waxed paper, oiled side down. Bake until top is lightly browned and loaf sounds hollow when tapped on bottom, 25 to 30 minutes. Remove from oven. Release from bowl by running long flat spatula or knife around edge. Let cool right side up, on wire rack. Makes 10 slices. PER SLICE: 130 CAL.; 5G PROT.; 0.5G TOTAL FAT (0.1 SAT. FAT); 27G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 213MGSOD.; 1G FIBER. VEGAN In general, ready-to-use broccoli florets come in smaller sizes than similarly packaged cauliflower florets. If there are any really big ones, cut them up before sauteing. Check the expiration date on the bag and look for fresh green florets with no yellow or brown spots.
1 recipe Fast Pizza dough, mixed and kneaded Preheat oven to 500°F. While pizza dough is rising, heat oil over medium-high heat in a 12-inch non-stick skillet. Add broccoli florets, cover and cook 2 to 3 minutes, stirring 1 or 2 times. Add garlic; cook 3 to 4 minutes more. Uncover pan; remove from heat. Set aside. When dough has risen, turn out on lightly floured surface. Dust top with flour as needed to prevent sticking. Roll out into 14-inch circle. Brush excess flour from dough; fold dough in half, then into quarters. Place on 14-inch lightly oiled pizza pan and unfold, easing to fit. Create thin rim by pressing dough down with thumb 1/4 inch from edge. Spread surface with pizza sauce. Sprinkle sauteed vegetables over sauce. Bake 12 minutes; remove from oven. Quickly sprinkle cheese or soy cheese over top; return pizza to oven. Bake until cheese is melted and bubbling and crust is golden and cooked through, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove pizza from oven. Slide onto pizza peel or cutting board. Let rest 5 minutes before cutting into wedges with pizza cutter or sharp serrated knife. Serve with Parmesan or Parmesan-style soy cheese and dried red pepper flakes if desired. Makes 8 large wedges. PER WEDGE: 266 CAL.; 15G PROT.; 6G TOTAL FAT (3G SAT. FAT); 39G CARB.; 15MG CHOL.; 613MG SOD.; 4G FIBER. LACTO/VEGAN
14-oz. can peeled, diced tomatoes with juice Preheat oven to 500°F. Empty tomatoes into sieve or small colander set over deep bowl. Toss several times to speed draining. Reserve juice. While dough is rising, pour about 34 cup reserved tomato juice into small saucepan. Add vinegar and pepper. Bring to boil over high heat. Continue boiling over high heat to reduce liquid; you should have slightly more than 1/4 cup sauce. Remove pan from heat; stir to cool while dough is rising. After dough has risen 15 minutes, turn out on lightly floured board. Roll into 14-inch circle, dusting top lightly with flour as needed to keep from sticking. Brush excess flour from dough; fold dough in half, then in half again. Place dough on lightly oiled 14-inch pizza pan. Unfold dough, easing to fit. Create thin rim by pressing dough down with thumb inch from edge. With rubber spatula, scrape sauce onto crust, spreading to cover. Scatter tomatoes over sauce. Bake 12 minutes. Remove from oven; quickly scatter basil and cheese evenly over pizza. Return pizza to oven; bake until cheese is melted and bubbling and crust is golden brown and baked through, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove from oven. Transfer to pizza peel or board. Let rest 5 minutes before cutting into wedges with pizza cutter or sharp serrated knife. Makes 8 large wedges. Variation: If fresh basil is out of season, chop together 1/4 cup fresh flat-leaf (Italian) parsley and 1 rounded teaspoon dried basil until minced and mixed. Then scatter evenly over tomatoes before topping with cheese. PER WEDGE: 260 CAL.; 14G PROT.; 6G TOTAL FAT (3G SAT. FAT); 38G CARB.; 15SMG CHOL.; 617MG SOD.; 2G FIBER, LACTO/VEGAN
1 recipe Fast Pizza Dough, mixed and kneaded Preheat oven to 500°F. While dough is rising, peel and dice onion; toss into lightly oiled 12-inch non-stick skillet. Sauté over medium-high heat about 5 minutes, tossing 1 or 2 times. While onion is cooking, slice top and bottom off peppers. Lift out stem, core and seed with fingers; discard. Chop peppers into 1-inch dice. Add peppers to skillet with onions. Stir and cook about 5 minutes, then add garlic and stir again. While onion-pepper mixture cooks, put mushrooms in colander. Toss under rapidly running water to clean. Turn out on paper toweling; quickly pat to dry. Chop mushrooms roughly (stems included), into 1/2-inch dice. Add to skillet. Sauté uncovered over high heat until mushrooms are cooked and any pan liquid evaporates, about 5 minutes. Remove skillet from heat; cool. After dough has risen 15 minutes, turn out on lightly floured surface. Roll into 14-inch circle, dusting top lightly with flour as needed to prevent sticking. Brush excess flour from dough; fold pizza in half, then in half again. Place folded dough on lightly oiled 14-inch pizza pan. Unfold dough, easing to fit. Create thin rim by pressing dough down with thumb 1/4 inch from edge. Spread dough with pizza sauce. Distribute reserved vegetables evenly. Bake 12 minutes. Remove from oven, add cheese and return to oven. Bake until cheese is bubbly and crust is golden brown and baked through, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove from oven. Transfer to pizza peel or board. Let rest 5 minutes before cutting with pizza cutter or sharp serrated knife into wedges. Makes 8 large wedges. Variation: Instead of cheese, drizzle 1 to 1-1/2 tablespoons virgin olive oil over cooked vegetables in skillet. Sprinkle with 1 teaspoon oregano and 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. Toss to mix. Top pizza and bake 20 minutes. PER WEDGE: 278 CAL.; 15SG PROT.; 6G TOTAL FAT (3G SAT. FAT); 42G CARB.; 15MG CHOL.; 604MG SOD.; 4G FIBER. LACTO/VEGAN This recipe is adapted from the Vegetarian Times Complete Cookbook (MacMillan, 1995). Prepare it while the pizza dough is rising. Store unused portion covered, refrigerated, for up to 1 week, or freeze up to 1 month.
2 cups chopped fresh basil leaves Put all ingredients except water in blender or food processor; pulse until minced. With machine running, add water to desired consistency. Makes about 1 cup. Variation: Replace cheese with 2 tablespoons toasted walnuts or pine nuts. PER TABLESPOON: 19 CAL.; 1G PROT.; 1G TOTAL FAT (0.2G SAT. FAT); 3G CARB.; 0.4MG CHOL.; 146MG SOD.; 0.4G FIBER. LACTO/VEGAN As the old saying goes: Waste not, want not. Neither tomato juice nor chili juice is wasted, and the resulting sauce is not wanting in flavor.
15-oz. can diced tomatoes with juice Preheat oven to 500°F. In large sieve or small colander set over deep bowl, empty tomatoes and chilies. Toss or press with back of spoon to speed draining; reserve juices. While dough is rising, put tomato and chili juices in small saucepan. Add cumin and cayenne. Bring to boil over high heat. Continue cooking over high heat until liquid is reduced (you should have about 1/4 cup sauce). Remove pan from heat. Let cool slightly. When dough has risen 15 minutes, turn out onto lightly floured surface. Roll into 14-inch circle, dusting top lightly with flour as needed to prevent sticking. Brush excess flour from dough; fold dough in half, then in half again. Place folded dough on lightly oiled 14-inch pizza pan, easing to fit. Create thin rim by pressing dough down with thumb 1/4 inch from edge. Using rubber spatula, scrape sauce from pan, spreading over dough. Sprinkle on reserved tomatoes and chilies, distributing evenly. Sprinkle on beans. Bake 12 minutes. Remove from oven, sprinkle with cheese and return to oven. Bake until cheese is bubbly and crust is golden brown and baked through, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove from oven. Transfer to pizza peel or large board. Let rest 5 minutes before cutting into wedges. Makes 8 large wedges.
PER WEDGE: 334 CAL.; 19G PROT.; 6G TOTAL FAT (3G SAT. FAT); 2G CARB.; 15MG CHOL.; 798MG SOD.; 7G FIBER. LACTO/VEGAN |
Vegetarian Times Magazine
