Seasonal fresh pumpkin can be so much more than pie.
Cover story by Nancy Ross Ryan
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Picks from the pumpkin patch: Seasonal fresh pumpkin can be so much more than pie. Cover story by Nancy Ross Ryan
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OCTOBER is smack dab in the middle of pumpkin season. Unlike its cousin, winter squash, which is available almost all year long, pumpkin is a distinctive fall-winter pleasure, to be enjoyed from September through December. The rest of the year, when absence makes the heart grow fonder, we can enjoy commercially canned pumpkin, pumpkin that we have frozen or winter squashes that are pumpkin taste-a-likes. And we can enjoy them in hundreds of different ways, far beyond pumpkin pie. Despite its popularity in this country as pastry fodder, other cuisines feature pumpkin in savvy dishes. How did Americans become so fixated on pumpkin pie while the rest of the world was revering in pumpkin curries, soups, stews and pumpkin paired with beans, greens, rice and pasta? Pumpkin was mercifully plentiful when the Pilgrims came to Plymouth Colony, helping them survive the winter of 1623. In its honor they wrote: "We have pumpkin at morning and pumpkin at noon, if it were not for pumpkin we would be undoon." But those same Pilgrims brought with them from England a taste for familiar spices--cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, ginger -- and a love of rich meat pies. At some point they put pumpkin into the culinary equation and voile, the American pumpkin pie. Unfortunately, the American pumpkin has languished in near obscurity ever since, relegated to guest appearances at Thanksgiving dinner. Before you start eyeing that jack-o'-lantern for supper, however, note that not all pumpkins are created equal: some are for carving and some for cooking. Deeming them stringy and watery, every cookbook consulted, every chef and expert interviewed said emphatically, "Don't cook with Halloween pumpkins!" But Karen Mangum, R.D., author of Life's Simple Pleasures, Fine Vegetarian Cooking For Sharing And Celebration (Harvest Press, 1996), says, "If you've got them, why not use them? I cook with mine all the time." Mangum seeds, slices and bakes hers, and says they're delicious. Maybe, when it comes to jack-o'-lanterns, satisfactory cooking results are the luck of the draw. To further complicate matters, some pumpkins that are good for cooking, are also good-looking. Instead of Halloween candy, Karen Caplan, president of Frieda's Finest Produce, Los Angeles, hands out tiny mini-pumpkins to trick-or-treaters who come knocking at her door. "I must give out 500 little pumpkins a year. They're not only adorable, they're delicious."
This Halloween, give yourself a real treat. Discover the unique flavor of fresh pumpkin in the recipes that follow for savvy soup to sweet mousse, with lots more in between.
For larger pumpkins, Cut halves in half lengthwise, then cut quarters in half, resulting in 8 pieces, each weighing between 7/8 to 1-1/2 pounds per piece, depending on size of pumpkin.
Place pumpkin pieces in lightly oiled 9 x 13-inch baking pan, skin side down, cut side up. Pour in water. Cover tightly with aluminum foil, lightly oiled on one side, oiled side down.
Bake until pumpkin flesh tests uniformly tender when fork is inserted, about 1 hour.
Remove from oven. Remove foil. Brush cut halves with butter, margarine or oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Return to oven until lightly browned, about 15 minutes. Makes 4 to 8 servings.
HELPFUL HINT: To microwave, cook slices, in single layer on plate, covered, for about 10 minutes. Cook halves or large pieces, skin side down in baking dish with 1/2 cup water, covered, for about 15 minutes.
VARIATION: Mix packed dark brown sugar with water in equal amounts. Whisk to dissolve. Brush liberally over cut surfaces and sprinkle sparsely with nutmeg before returning to oven.
Alternatively, brush cut surfaces liberally with maple syrup before returning to oven.
PER 1-CUP SERVING: 65 CAL.; 1G PROT.; 3G TOTAL FAT (2G SAT. FAT); 9G CARB.; 8MG CHOL.; 268MG SOD.; 7G FIBER. LACTO/VEGAN
PER 1-CUP SERVING: 49 CAL., 2G PROT., 0.2G TOTAL FAT (0.1G SAT. FAT); 12G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 2MG SOD.; 7G FIBER. VEGAN
1 Tbs. light olive oilHEAT OIL in 3-1/2 qt. saucepan. Add dry spices, stirring to warm but do not brown, about 1 minute. Add onion, stirring to coat. Sauté over medium heat until onion is soft but not brown, about 5 minutes. Add pumpkin purée and stock; stir to mix. Bring to boil. Lower heat to simmer. Simmer, covered, until soup is slightly thickened and flavors are melded, about 20 to 25 minutes. Salt to taste. Pour soup into large bowl. Purée in batches in food processor or blender. Return to pan. Heat before serving. Garnish with scallions and croutons. Makes 8 servings. PER 1-CUP SERVING: 81 CAL.; 2G PROT.; 2G TOTAL FAT (0.3G SAT. FAT); 15G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 353MG SOD.; 3G FIBER. VEGAN
1/4 oz. pkg. active dry yeast (about 1 Tbs.)IN LARGE BOWL mix yeast and water, stirring to combine and dissolve. Add salt, caraway seed and molasses, stirring to mix. Add pumpkin purée, stirring to mix. Add flour all at once. Stir with large, sturdy spoon until all flour is incorporated and dough leaves sides of bowl. Turn out onto floured surface. Knead until dough is smooth and satiny, about 5 to 8 minutes. Lightly oil bowl. Return dough to bowl. Cover with clean, damp tea towel. Set in warm place (85°F) to rise. Let rise until doubled, about I hour. Punch down, shape into loaf. Place in lightly oiled bread pan. Cover with clean, damp tea towel. Let rise until doubled and indentation made with thumb remains. Bake in preheated 400°F oven until browned on top and bottom sounds hollow when tapped, about 35 minutes. Remove from pan. Let cool on wire rack. Makes 1 loaf. VARIATIONS: Substitute 2 tablespoons brown sugar for molasses, and 1/2 cup raisins for caraway seed. Add 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon to liquid ingredients. Substitute whole wheat or rye flour for 1/3 of the white flour in original recipe. To make pumpkin-cinnamon loaf, when dough is punched down, instead of shaping it into a loaf, stretch the dough into a rectangular shape. Sprinkle the dough with a mixture of sugar and cinnamon, then roll dough up from short side to form a loaf. Place in loaf pan and proceed with recipe. PER SLICE: 130 CAL.; 4G PROT.: 0.4G TOTAL FAT (0.1G SAT. FAT): 28G CARB.; 0 CHOL.: 180MG SOD.; 2G FIBER. VEGAN
1 cup unbleached, all-purpose flourIN LARGE SIFTER place flour, baking powder, salt and sugar; sift into large bowl. In separate bowl beat together egg, milk or soymilk, pumpkin purée and oil. Add to dry ingredients, stirring with rubber spatula to combine. Do not overmix. Drop by spoonful onto preheated nonstick griddle or skillet. Cook over medium-high heat until bubbles appear on surface. Turn once; cook on other side. Serve immediately. Makes 10 5-inch pancakes. VARIATION: Substitute 1/3 cup whole wheat flour for 1/3 cup white flour. Increase milk to 1 cup. PER PANCAKE: 83 CAL.; 3G PROT.: 3G TOTAL FAT (1G SAT. FAT): 12G CARB.: 19MG CHOL.; 268MG SOD.; 1G FIBER. OVO-LACTO Move over mustard and make room for this delicious pumpkin salad dressing, which is especially good over mixed baby greens. As with all salad dressings, the secret is to make it fresh, just before serving.
1 clove garlic, mincedCOMBINE FIRST SIX INGREDIENTS in small bowl; mix with whisk to dissolve sugar and salt. Add oil; whisk until incorporated. Makes about cup dressing. PER TABLESPOON: 63 CAL. 0.1G PROT.: 7G TOTAL FAT (1G SAT. FAT): 1G CARB.: 0 CHOL.: 133MG SOD.: 0.1G FIBER. VEGAN with Bread Crumb Topping
Pasta:PASTA: Select 18 perfect, unbroken, uncracked shells from package. Lay out on clean towel. Bring water seasoned with salt to rolling boil in large, at least 5-1/2-quart pot. Add shells, one by one, while stirring bottom of pot with flat edge of wooden or plastic spatula. When all shells have been added, continue stirring from bottom gently to keep shells from sticking. Bring water back to a boil. Cook for 11 minutes, scraping bottom occasionally. Place pot of water and pasta in sink under cold running water. Stir gently from bottom while cold water stops cooking process and replaces hot water. Lift shells carefully with cupped palms and place in colander to drain. FILLING: Preheat oven to 350°F. In large bowl combine pumpkin purée, almonds, nutmeg, salt and black pepper. Lightly oil 9- by 13-inch baking dish. Stuff each shell with about 2 tablespoons pumpkin mixture. Arrange, open side up, not touching, in baking dish. Cover with aluminum foil that has been lightly oiled, oiled side down. Bake until filling is heated through, about 30 minutes. TOPPING: Meanwhile, add butter or margarine to small skillet. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until butter or margarine begins to brown but not burn. Stir in garlic. Sauté only until garlic becomes soft and translucent; remove from heat. Add toasted crumbs and fresh or dried sage; mix thoroughly with fork. To serve, place 3 shells on heated plate. Top each with 1 teaspoon of crumb-butter mixture. Garnish plate with parsley. If desired, pass freshly grated Parmesan cheese at the table. Makes 6 appetizer servings of 3 shells each. HELPFUL HINT: Recipe can be doubled to serve as a main course. PER 3-SHELL APPETIZER SERVING: 328 CAL.; 6G PROT.; 25 G TOTAL FAT (11 G SAT. FAT); 23 G CARB.; 44MG CHOL.; 373MG SOD.; 5G FIBER. LACTO/VEGAN
2 Tbs. vegetable oilIN LARGE, heavy-bottomed pan, heat oil over medium heat; stir curry powder in to toast but not burn. Add pumpkin cubes, tossing to coat. Sauté over medium heat for 5 minutes, tossing and stirring. Add onion; toss to coat while sautéing for 5 minutes. Add stock, raisins and salt; cover. Simmer until pumpkin is tender but not falling apart, about 15 minutes. Dissolve cornstarch in water; stir into curry. Cook and stir until sauce is clear. Serve over white or brown rice. Present garnishes in separate bowls with spoons so diners may choose toppings for curry and serve themselves. Makes 6 servings. VARIATION: Instead of mild curry powder, choose a hot Madras-style curry powder or add 1 seeded, minced jalapeno pepper along with onions. PER SERVING: 365 CAL.; 6G PROT.: 5G TOTAL FAT (1G SAT. FAT); 75G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 144MG SOD.; 4G FIBER. VEGAN Pumpkin holds its own not only with curries but with other Asian spices as well. This stirfry is a colorful, satisfying main dish needing only rice to complete it. The real work--cutting ingredients--is done before cooking. Remember to cut all ingredients the same thickness and to keep the wok or skillet very hot.
1 Tbs. vegetable or peanut oilHEAT OIL in large wok or heavy-bottom skillet to almost smoking. Add garlic, stir and toss with spatula until aromatic, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Add ginger; stir and toss 30 seconds. Add pumpkin. Cook over high heat stirring and tossing for 5 minutes. Add celery; stir and toss 2 minutes. Add bell pepper; stir and toss 1 minute. Add scallions; stir and toss 1 minute. Add tofu; stir and toss I minute. Add stock, tamari, sugar, sherry and rice vinegar; stir and toss to combine. Cover wok or skillet; cook over high heat until pumpkin is tender but not falling apart, about 10 minutes. Lift lid once or twice and stir from bottom. Mix cornstarch in water; add to vegetable mixture. Cook until thickened. Stir in sesame oil. Serve over white or brown cooked rice. Makes 6 servings. PER SERVING: 334 CAL.; 10G PROT: 5G TOTAL FAT (1G SAT. FAT); 63G CARB.; 0 CHOL; 809MG SOD.; 4G FIBER. VEGAN This recipe is adapted from VEGETARIAN BURGERS, by Bharti Kirchner (HarperPerennial, 1996). Don't be daunted by the ingredient list; this burger is worth the effort. Good curry powder can be substituted for Thai yellow curry paste.
1/2 cup quinoa, rinsed and drainedBRING QUINOA and water to a boil in medium saucepan. Cover and cook until all water is absorbed and quinoa is light and fluffy, 10 to 15 minutes. Measure 1 cup. Retain the rest for later use. Heat oil in medium skillet over medium heat. Cook onion until soft, about 4 minutes. Add bell pepper and curry paste or powder; stir to distribute evenly. Reduce heat and cook, covered, until bell pepper is tender, about 5 to 8 minutes. Add pumpkin. Cook, uncovered, 3 to 5 minutes, stirring constancy. Add coconut; mix well. Remove from heat. Transfer to large bowl. Add ground pumpkin seeds and 1 cup bread crumbs; mix well. Season to taste with salt. Form into patties 3 inches in diameter and 1/2 inch thick, mixing in more bread crumbs if patties don't hold their shape. Sauté in lightly oiled skillet, turning once, until browned on both sides and cooked through, about 5 to 7 minutes. Check frequently to prevent burning. If desired, serve on hamburger buns or warmed sourdough bread with shredded lettuce, onion slices and honey-ginger mustard. Makes 8 burgers. NOTE: Shelled pumpkin seeds can be found in natural food stores or in Mexican markets, where they are also known as pepitas. Toast them in a hot, dry skillet and grind them in a food processor or electric coffee grinder.
PER PATTY: 223 CAL.; 10G PROT.; 10G TOTAL FAT (2G SAT. FAT); 28G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 313MG SOD.; 5G FIBER. Pumpkin-Orange Frosting
 Cake:CAKE: Preheat oven to 350°F. In large bowl or bowl of heavy-duty mixer, cream butter until very light and fluffy; add sugar. Continue to beat, scraping sides down, until light brown in color and very fluffy. Add eggs, one at a time, and vanilla; beat until creamy and fluffy. In large sifter, place flour, baking powder, baking soda, cocoa, pumpkin pie spice and salt. Sift into large bowl. With beaters running, alternately add dry ingredients and pumpkin purée. Batter will be thick and creamy. Divide evenly between two 9-inch diameter cake pans that have been sprayed and floured and have bottoms lined with sprayed, floured wax paper circles. Smooth surface carefully to level. Bake in middle of oven until cake springs back when lightly touched with finger and wooden pick inserted in center comes out dry, about 25 minutes. Remove pans from oven to wire rack. Let cool in pans until room temperature. FROSTING: In mixer bowl, cream butter or margarine until light and fluffy. Add about 1 cup sugar. Beat until butter is completely incorporated. Add rest of sugar and pumpkin purée, vanilla and orange oil or zest. Beat until frosting is thick enough to frost cake. Makes enough to frost top and sides of a 9-inch two-layer cake. Place first layer on plate. Frost top and sides with 1/2 orange frosting. Top with second layer; frost top and sides. Makes a 9-inch layer cake; 10 to 12 wedges. HELPFUL HINTS: If using grated orange zest, add after frosting is mixed, using spoon to stir and blend. If zest is added while frosting is being beaten, it tends to stick to beaters.
PER SLICE: 490 CAL.; 5G PROT. 16G TOTAL FAT (9G SAT. FAT); 86G CARB.; 71MG CHOL.; 352MG SOD.; 2G FIBER. OVO-LACTO
2 10-1/2-oz. pkgs. Japanese-style firm silken tofu, drainedPLACE AIL INGREDIENTS except gingersnap crumbs in food processor or blender. Process, scraping sides, until sugar is dissolved and all ingredients are incorporated. Layer into dessert dishes as follows: mousse, crumbs, mousse, crumbs. If desired, garnish with gingersnap cookie standing upright in mousse. Makes 8 servings of about 1/2 cup each. HELPFUL HINT: To make gingersnap crumbs, place cookies between two layers of plastic wrap and pound and roll with rolling pin or process in food processor or blender. PER 1/2-CUP SERVING: 142 CAL.; 7G PROT.; 8G TOTAL FAT (0.2G SAT. FAT); 22G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 150MG SOD.; 1G FIBER. VEGAN |
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